Spark plugs-Oil consumption-5k mile rebuild

[Orpedcrow]

97, Chevrolet, ecsb, 5.7 vortec, Marine cam, 4L60E, 2x4, teal on neutral.

Machine shop rebuilt 5 thousand miles ago and I’m pretty heart broken.

I’m getting a big puff of smoke at start up and about a quart of oil is being consumed per 1000 miles. I changed the plugs today and took some pictures, obviously 7 is the worst, 8 is also burning oil. Some have a greenish/bronze color to them and most have a single black streak on one side.

I’m thinking valve stem seals in 7 and 8 but I’m not sure. I’d like some of the collective knowledge and experience to be shared. Truck is still running the factory 5.0 ecm so that might explain some of the coloring being off (lean?) No CEL, and runs pretty flawlessly otherwise.

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Rotated 180*

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#8

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Cont.

 

[Orpedcrow]

#2 notice greenish coloring.

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#5

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#3

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#7

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I’ve kept and labeled all the plugs if you would like more photos.

 

[Komet]

I suppose you could do a leakdown test but yeah valve stem seals could very well be the culprit here because it's probably not rings.

Your #7 looks like the #8 I pulled in my L98. I fixed it by installing a new spark plug and pretending I didn't see that. But it most likely also needs valve stem seals.

 

[Orpedcrow]

I suppose you could do a leakdown test but yeah valve stem seals could very well be the culprit here because it's probably not rings.

Your #7 looks like the #8 I pulled in my L98. I fixed it by installing a new spark plug and pretending I didn't see that. But it most likely also needs valve stem seals.

Ok I didn’t think rings either. There’s zero air chuffing from the filler tube.

 

[fancyTBI]

The ‘95 had bad valve seals. Several were completely cracked or had pieces missing. The spark plugs didn’t look that bad when I pulled them out. It used 1 qt of oil when I made an interstate drive that was about 2 hours long.

Maybe it is seals, different trucks for sure but just wanted to add that. I certainly hope it’s just seals for ya!

 

[Orpedcrow]

What do y’all think about the bronzishish coloring? There’s no way it would be burning valve guides right? At least not inside the combustion chamber.

Cooling system is full of fresh dexcool. I noticed the expansion tank was empty (but not dry) and the radiator took maaaybe a quart of water to reach the filler neck.

 

[GoToGuy]

Do a regular total compression check, look for the 100 plus psi numbers. Then next do a differential compression/ Leakdown check. To find out what excessive wear is occuring where.
Have discussed any of this with your re builder?
During the leak down check gave rad cap off , see if compression is leaking into water. Coolant is finding a way out, whether through the cylinder or a outside leak, you going through coolant somehow.

 

[JeremyNH]

Something to consider as it's a fresh rebuild and the cylinders with the problems are 7 and 8 is the oil pump. When I put my stroker together 2 years ago I used AFR 912 heads and the assembly instructions specifically cautions against the use of high volume/high pressure oil pumps as excess oil tends to collect in the heads and flood the seals leading to smoke and oil consumption. The Melling pump I used came with the HP red spring pre-installed and the SP yellow spring shipped loose. Based on the AFR note I swapped to the yellow spring and never have had an issue. Not sure what pump or spring your shop used but may be something to look at.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I wish the high volume pump myth would just cease to be. The high volume pump is not carrying any more oil to the top end than a stock pump.

 

[JeremyNH]

I wish the high volume pump myth would just cease to be. The high volume pump is not carrying any more oil to the top end than a stock pump.

From AFRs website under "general recommendations for cylinder heads":

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The same note was in the assembly instructions of the heads they shipped.