Oil pan gasket change 5.7 L31

[Pinger]

So there is a write up on knowing what the position the crank should be in without visually seeing it ?

I read it somewhere, four years ago.... Maybe in Haynes.
As per previous post, once the pan is lowered a touch you can see what's what.
The job will make a more sense once you get stuck in. You'll see what's in your way and can decide whether to remove or work around.

It looks like the crank journal’s are at a half/half 50/50 down the center of the pan the way the photo shows you took

Possibly!
Photo below taken at same time/position may shed more light on crank position from position of keyway.

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[A97obs]

Photo below taken at same time/position may shed more light on crank position from position of keyway

That’s a good reference idea for a starting point..

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

C2500 here.

Yes. But IIRC once the pan is lowered it can be seen where the pan and crank foul and the crank manipulated.

It will drop onto the chassis/frame than have to be slid rearwards until clear of chassis enough for complete removal. With the oil pump/filter still in place I had to 'twist' it also so that one edge was lower than the other to extricate it.

I had the oil filter and the cooler lines and adapter down as well. Replaced the lines and seals because they were leaking. This L31 had ~175K on it. Job started out as oil change, grease job and belt tensioner assembly replacement. Got under it and saw the dreaded orange whizz from the water pump. Dad said "do the timing job while you have it open" replaced timing cover with OEM one(no aftermarket one yet, this was early 2007). Then I had to drop the pan to get the cover off.....one afternoon job took three weeks.

 

[rebelyell]

On L31 (and other motors w/ 1 piece rms) if you suspect rear main seal is bad, you may be right BUT the crank itself may Also have a groove worn into by seal lip. That's not uncommon on hi-mile motors.
Fortunately, there's a fix that's relatively cheap n easy. It's called a Redi-sleeve aka Speedi-sleeve and most of the top old-line parts manufacturers offer it or similar. It's a very thin stainless steel shell that you tap/push onto the end of crank (after you've removed the RMS carrier housing). The same type part is also available for dampers that have a groove worn into snout by timing cover seal's lip. Sleeving a damper snout or crank's been around for a long time.

If the surface has a groove, a new seal maybe who knows might fix it for a little while, but you'll end up revisiting that SOS. Gotta eliminate that groove Plus a new seal for any long-term fix.

 

[jjester6000]

Never done this job or task before but a friend who happened to have a new extra gasket before he sold his truck .. I have a dreaded leak since I’ve bought this vehicle … want to clear up once and for all !
Can the oil pan gasket “itself” be changed out fairly simple without having to do any engine lifting’ or bs involved . Clearance enough to drop it down to weasel out the old and in with the new ? What’s the skinny on the change procedure
92-99 suburban 5.7 L31 or otherwise believe it’s likely the same for the 88-98 engine cradle

I once changed the pan gasket on my '74 GMC by undoing the motor mounts and lifting the engine up a few inches with a comealong strapped to a tree.

It was way easier then removing out the crossmember.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Currently watching 99” Obs c1500 suburban they did lift the motor .. also learned you must fit the gasket to the block first not the pan first , due to the dip stick tube fitment and alignment.
They were using plastic guide dowels of some sort that thread in . Possibly part of the gasket kit

Also noted to use healthy glob or silicone at the 4 corners especially by the timing cover corners

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Yes they are in the fel pro gasket set. Very helpful with installation, IIRC the big rubber/vinyl gasket is heavy and unwieldy. They have slots in the ends for a straight blade screwdriver.
I did everything by the factory shop manual including torque settings. The truck leaked oil before the repair, and still leaked after it.
To answer your other question, I don't recall anything attached to the engine being an issue when we lifted it. The engine didn't need to be raised but a couple of inches. I raised it high enough to get the pan out, and did not go any higher.

 

[Pinger]

I had the oil filter and the cooler lines and adapter down as well.

I forgot about the cooler lines on the passenger side. My advice to the OP is that they can attempt to remove the pan with least disturbance to other components but, as they encounter each obstacle, consider if they want the same fight on reassembly (when there's a new gasket and wet sealant to contend with).
When I did mine I was working outside in February (cold in Scotland) and under time constraints. With more time and better weather, I would likely have removed more to aid access. Maybe not on both sides but one at least.

 

[rebelyell]

The felpro gaskets' threaded plastic aides that're used to hold up gasket are known as "snap ups"
mahle/victor gasket includes similar aide.

When a new one-piece OP gasket leaks, ensure against Two common failure modes:
1. Surfaces were not as clean as they should have been. They must truly be dry; not almost dry.
2. Too much silicone RTV was applied.

The one-piece OP gasket Must "grip" the surfaces and Must not be able to creep or slide at all; it cannot grip if surfaces have any residual oil/old sealant And if installer gets too happy with RTV, the gasket will creep or slide on that. More is Not better.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

The felpro gaskets' threaded plastic aides that're used to hold up gasket are known as "snap ups"
mahle/victor gasket includes similar aide.

When a new one-piece OP gasket leaks, ensure against Two common failure modes:
1. Surfaces were not as clean as they should have been. They must truly be dry; not almost dry.
2. Too much silicone RTV was applied.

The one-piece OP gasket Must "grip" the surfaces and Must not be able to creep or slide at all; it cannot grip if surfaces have any residual oil/old sealant And if installer gets too happy with RTV, the gasket will creep or slide on that. More is Not better.

I think I was sparing with the silicone, but memory is a little fuzzy on all the details as it was 2007! That truck had 250+K on it when it got totaled and the frame was too bent to fix. It had a lot of undercar leaks. In 2012, it wasn't worth fixing according to the insurance company (ours because the A holes that hit it had none). At least 10 years later when the current burb got hit, they had insurance....

 

[fancyTBI]

I’d yank the engine out and give it a re-seal, but I know it’s not always an option. Gives you lots of room to work, inspect, clean, replace all sorts of stuff.