Oil pan gasket change 5.7 L31

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A97obs

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Never done this job or task before but a friend who happened to have a new extra gasket before he sold his truck .. I have a dreaded leak since I’ve bought this vehicle … want to clear up once and for all !
Can the oil pan gasket “itself” be changed out fairly simple without having to do any engine lifting’ or bs involved . Clearance enough to drop it down to weasel out the old and in with the new ? What’s the skinny on the change procedure
92-99 suburban 5.7 L31 or otherwise believe it’s likely the same for the 88-98 engine cradle
 

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Never done this job or task before but a friend who happened to have a new extra gasket before he sold his truck .. I have a dreaded leak since I’ve bought this vehicle … want to clear up once and for all !
Can the oil pan gasket “itself” be changed out fairly simple without having to do any engine lifting’ or bs involved . Clearance enough to drop it down to weasel out the old and in with the new ? What’s the skinny on the change procedure
92-99 suburban 5.7 L31 or otherwise believe it’s likely the same for the 88-98 engine cradle
I have heard that there's a certain position that the crankshaft has to be in, and then you can pull the pan w/o jacking the engine up. @Pinger did it that way on his '99 C2500 Burb. On my other C1500 Burb I had to jack the engine up because the pan's windage tray caught on the baffle attached to the main bearing caps. Of course you have to pull the motor mount bolts to do this. I used a bottle jack with a wood block on it, with a half round notch and jacked on the crank snout. Had the balancer and pulley off cause I was replacing timing set.
 

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I have heard that there's a certain position that the crankshaft has to be in, and then you can pull the pan w/o jacking the engine up. @Pinger did it that way on his '99 C2500 Burb.
'Tis true, I did exactly that and without disturbing the oil pump/filter assembly - though I probably would if doing it again. I did IIRC remove the dipstick tube.
That was on a C - Ks I think are different. The 'certain position' is I think written somewhere but I can't remember where or whether I jiggled with mine or it was conveniently stopped in the correct position (unlikely). See photo below from when this was done but I'm not saying the crank is in the position it had to be in.
So it can be done without lifting the block and with minimal disturbance to anything else on a 2WD but it is a writhing wriggling effort to do it. Removing the oil pump/filter assembly would make it easier - I had to have the pan at a tilt to clear it. The easier it can be offered up, the less chance of displacing the sealant improving the chances of a leak-free result. For sure, it can be done without lifting the motor. Note, I removed the pan. Whether the gasket can be changed with the pan dropped but still 'there' I don't know but only possible I'd guess if the sealing surfaces can be accessed well enough for cleaning.

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A97obs

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I have heard that there's a certain position that the crankshaft has to be in, and then you can pull the pan w/o jacking the engine up. @Pinger did it that way on his '99 C2500 Burb. On my other C1500 Burb I had to jack the engine up because the pan's windage tray caught on the baffle attached to the main bearing caps. Of course you have to pull the motor mount bolts to do this. I used a bottle jack with a wood block on it, with a half round notch and jacked on the crank snout. Had the balancer and pulley off cause I was replacing timing set.
Did or does the trans being attached to the motor cause any aggravation in the angle or process of the lift or hassles with the trans cross member tilt? Or the trans mount ? or anything along the drive line causing stress points ?
 

A97obs

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See photo below from when this was done but I'm not saying the crank is in the position it had to be in.
So it can be done without lifting the block and with minimal disturbance to anything
So the pan on a C series 1500 can be pulled out without lifting it just to clarify? But the crank still needs to be on a certain rotation point to pull the pan down and back ? Does the pan just drop or does it literally come all the way out and able to set it aside ?
 

A97obs

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'Tis true, I did exactly that and without disturbing the oil pump/filter assembly - though I probably would if doing it again. I did IIRC remove the dipstick tube.
That was on a C - Ks I think are different. The 'certain position' is I think written somewhere but I can't remember where or whether I jiggled with mine or it was conveniently stopped in the correct position (unlikely). See photo below from when this was done but I'm not saying the crank is in the position it had to be in.
So it can be done without lifting the block and with minimal disturbance to anything else on a 2WD but it is a writhing wriggling effort to do it. Removing the oil pump/filter assembly would make it easier - I had to have the pan at a tilt to clear it. The easier it can be offered up, the less chance of displacing the sealant improving the chances of a leak-free result. For sure, it can be done without lifting the motor. Note, I removed the pan. Whether the gasket can be changed with the pan dropped but still 'there' I don't know but only possible I'd guess if the sealing surfaces can be accessed well enough for cleaning.

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This is Just a random extra thought ! Should the pan be replaced in any event just for ease of maybe uneven surface or reusing a 25-30 year old pan .. any upside to 50/50 doing a new pan at the same time
What gasket brand / material is the go to of choice ?
 

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There's probably some youtube vids for the 2wd. I watched a couple on doing this on a k1500. You can either lower the front diff, or remove the oil pump, and the pan will come out. Might have to take off oil filter adapter too.

My problem is I kind of want to pull it and pressure wash the engine bay and go through the engine top to bottom, which leads me to project creep. This is the third oil sealing gasket on it that needs to be replaced and it is a mess down there.
 

A97obs

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There's probably some youtube vids for the 2wd.
Currently watching 99” Obs c1500 suburban they did lift the motor .. also learned you must fit the gasket to the block first not the pan first , due to the dip stick tube fitment and alignment.
They were using plastic guide dowels of some sort that thread in . Possibly part of the gasket kit

Also noted to use healthy glob or silicone at the 4 corners especially by the timing cover corners
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