LS swap starting issue

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Road Trip

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2023
Messages
1,707
Reaction score
4,832
Location
Syracuse, NY
The only small issue I’m having is that 6 out of 10 times when I go to start it, it doesn’t immediately fire on the FIRST key turn. It will crank as long as I hold the key engaged but not fire. (Not a fuel pressure issue) If it doesn’t fire in the first 2 seconds or so I can turn the key back one position then immediately re-engage the starter and it pops right off. It’s very strange. The other 4 out of 10 times, it busts right off.

Greetings Cudajeff,

Welcome to the GMT400 forum. Your project is so clean, a pleasure to view, and your engine
bay looks like it was a factory installation.

****

As for your random 'always cranks, but intermittently no starts...but always starts on the 2nd try'
tells me that you are close, but not quite right on a couple of signals. Given the age and matching
condition of a typical/tired GMT400, a flaky no start is usually traced back to a fuel delivery system
on the edge. But it looks like your truck's fuel delivery system is in new condition, with 60 psi reliably available.

Problem Description / Background theory for intermittent No Start, non fuel delivery related (Engine <> 0411 synchronization)

So the root cause may be a subtle electrical timing issue. For example, a phasing error between 2 signals
that, depending on where the engine stops after the previous previous drive, allows the computer to
figure out the proper relationship between the 2 signals. Or not. Since where the engine stops is
random/unpredictable, this would explain the random nature of the failure.

But it always works on the 2nd try, because spinning the engine, no start, and then having it stop means
that the engine has stopped (and the accompanying physical position reluctors) in a different position than
where the engine was positioned pre-crank the first time, again allowing your computer to sort
out the 'slightly wonky' signal relationship once again. This would plausibly explain why the 2nd start is always successful.

Specific sensors involved in communicating exact engine position to 0411

On our modern EFI systems, the tighter the synchronization between engine & computer the better the
system will interoperate. Cleaner emissions, better dynamics/more responsive to the driver, etc.

The CKP (CranK Position) sensor generates the primary positional signal that the entire timing relationship
between the microsecond-long CPU cycles and the millisecond-long duration engine cycles is built upon.

The name of the CKP signal in the FSMs is the "Reference" signal. And if our engines were designed to
accomplish an entire functional cycle in only 1 360° crankshaft revolution, then all we would need for the
0411 to be completely synchronized to the exact position of the engine would *only* be the CKP sensor.

However, as we all know our 4 stroke engines require 720° of crank rotation, so in order to figure out exactly
where our engine is in terms of which specific cylinder is next to fire, etc., this is the value-added by adding
a CMP (CaM Position) sensor to the 1/2 engine speed camshaft.

And since we now have 2 individual sensors, the phasing between the 2 becomes very important. (!)

Are there any examples out there where a LS <> 0411 suffered the exact same intermittent starting...and the solution is shared?

So with this problem description I went out on the Interwebs and poked around a bit. There were so
many promising threads that eventually petered out and were abandoned before the solution was shared. :-(

But after a few false starts I was reading a thread where an engine was swapped in and the owner wrote the following:

"
When it starts, it does so instantly and runs great. No problems no codes. But random if you try and start it, theres a chance it just will turn over over and never actually run. If you stop trying to crank it then immediately try again it fires up no problem. Everyone and internet says its the can sensor but no one reads about the application. This is a gen 4 motor with gen3 24x crank, with a ls2 timing set and from can position sensor. I read on the internet that this should be easy and worry free. But before putting this refreshed engine in the Tahoe started every time."

So the problem description was almost identical. The good news is that the thread delivered the goods:

The solution was shared in reply #4 to the above. Reversing the signal wires from the CMP sensor was the fix.
Although I'm unfamiliar with the exact shape of this specific sensor's signal output, as an old scope dope I *do*
know that an 'upside down' signal can cause enough of a timing change (phasing error) that it could make it
harder for the computer to determine exactly where in the 720° cycle the engine is positioned.

And no doubt, driven by the need for safety in all possible scenarios that owners can come up with, one of the
architectural rules of this system is that the computer won't fire the injectors until it knows exactly where the
engine is. (!)

****

Apologies for taking so long to set the table. But I'm hoping all this will set you up to be able to follow the
logic behind the reported fix:


****

Disclaimer: There's no guarantee that this is the root cause of your specific problem. But I think that double-checking
the wiring between these 2 critical synchronization sensors and the 0411 would be the next logical step. And if the
color coding of the wiring checks out 100%, I think actually scoping the signals will be the next step. (Who knows,
maybe a simple reseating of these connectors will cure a marginal output, voltage-wise?) But I can guess all day
about what's just on the edge with the signal integrity between these 2 sensors and the 0411. Timing, voltage level,
excess noise on top of the signal -- with an o-scope this is where the guessing stops and the knowing starts. :0)

Best of luck. And once your discover the fix, please be sure to come back to this thread and share the solution.

Cheers --
 
Last edited:

Cudajeff

Newbie
Joined
May 15, 2024
Messages
8
Reaction score
5
Location
Houston
Thanks RT. That sounds plausible. Let me re-read what you said a few times so I understand it. I’ll triple check the three wires on the cam sensor making sure they are pinned correctly. I’ll see what I can figure out. “Reversing the signal wires from the CMP sensor” not sure what you mean by that. There is a sensor signal, low reference and 12 volt reference in the pigtail. If they are pinned out correctly in the 411 and the pigtail, what more could I do?
 

Road Trip

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2023
Messages
1,707
Reaction score
4,832
Location
Syracuse, NY
Thanks RT. That sounds plausible. Let me re-read what you said a few times so I understand it. I’ll triple check the three wires on the cam sensor making sure they are pinned correctly. I’ll see what I can figure out. “Reversing the signal wires from the CMP sensor” not sure what you mean by that.

We're both referring to the proper pinning of the 3 wires, both at the sensor and the 0411. Inverting the power
to the sensor may well affect how the sensor responds to the toothed wheel spinning underneath...yet at the
same time still work well enough to allow the engine to start some percentage of the time. (Given the 3 wires,
no doubt there are combinations that wouldn't start at all and immediately throw a code?)

Speaking of which, after your swap is your 0411 able to illuminate the SES light and also store DTC codes?
(I have to ask, since this is a custom installation.) Just trying to figure out if not having any codes can be used
as part of the overall Process of Elimination?

As for repinning, what are the possible combinations? In a perfect world,
I would have a truth table based on a known-good engine bay, and it
would list exactly what the symptoms are for every possible miswiring
scenario for this combo of LS engine, sensor, and 0411?

Pins - Functional Response

A B C (100% correct)
B C A (undefined?)
C A B (undefined?)
A C B (undefined?)
B A C (undefined?)
C B A (always cranks, intermittent no-start, 2nd try always successful?)

Given that I currently only have access to the GMT400 docset, I am at
a disadvantage when it comes to the pinout of the 0411, as well as the
LS CKP and CMP sensors. But in general terms I'm going to guess that
these sensors follow the normal convention where the signal wire is in
the center, while the power & ground wires are outboard.

The only point I'm trying to make is that a single wire can only go 1 way. Can't get it wrong.
With 2 wires we have a 50/50 chance of getting it right. We may have to swap the wires.
With 3 wires we end with the 6 possible combinations I typed in above.

And of course we gotta hit all the correct pins on the 0411.

I've always maintained that in a perfect world stuff like this would either ALWAYS work
or ALWAYS fail. None of this "randomly starts 40% of the time on the first try, but
always starts on the 2nd try" hair-pulling nonsense. :0)

But thanks to the fact that at both ends of this control circuitry we are dealing with
analog signals which must be in tight synchronization, inevitably there is room for
weirdness like this to creep in.
There is a sensor signal, low reference and 12 volt reference in the pigtail. If they are pinned out correctly in the 411 and the pigtail, what more could I do?

Good question. One possible avenue to follow would be to involve a scope dope guru like
the gentleman at Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics. Consider watching this video purely optional,
but if you are wondering how deep the rabbit hole can be when troubleshooting a discrepancy
between the CKP <> CMP correlation, then watching Ivan work through this issue is informative:

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media


NOTE: If anyone reading this would like to see how these critical signals are adversely affected
by the 'knife edge' wear on the distributor's gears, you will find this video very interesting.

Before I leave the scope dope subject, if you want to see the state of the art when it comes
to automotive powerplant troubleshooting, do yourself a favor and look up Bernie Thompson
at Automotive Test Solutions. He is a troubleshooter's troubleshooter. (See attached.)

****

Getting back to your question about what more could you do, I'd consider the following list:

* Carefully recheck the pinning between these 2 sensors on the engine side, and the corresponding pins
on the 0411 side.

* If the pinning is good, verify the power and ground at both sensors is correct. Check the physical
installation of both sensors, looking for either too far away or too close physical positioning.

* Still no solution? Now that we've covered the basics, now is the time to involve a scan tool that
has enough resolution that we can properly analyze the live data in order to get additional insight.

* If still no joy, then in my opinion it will be time to start working at the o-scope level. Keep in mind
that once you get this running, it stays running, and runs well. Saying this another way, we're not
going to find a *gross* error. It's going to be subtle, hard to discern on your first outing, piece of
cake on the 2nd and subsequent times you get to troubleshoot this. (Of course, you may never get
to work this specific issue ever again. :0)

* You could decide to continue to research this in either the LS swap area of this forum, or possibly
other LS-centric forums. There are also a couple of EFI forums where the gurus sort out stuff like
this fairly often. (Again I need to stress that I'm on thin ice at this point, since A) I don't
have 0411 documentation or factory LS FSMs to refer to, and B) this is a custom repower with
additional variables in play in this engine bay.)

****

But given all the info that's out there, I believe that you will eventually get this starting 100% of the
time on the 1st twist of the key. All I would ask is that once you figure this out, please return and
share the wealth. For I am here to learn as much as I can about stuff like this, for I'm considering
a 0411 upgrade to my L29, and living vicariously through your troubleshooting session will (hopefully)
set me up for success down the road.

Hope this helps. Fingers crossed it's something simple that jumps out at ya.

Cheers --
 

Attachments

  • CKP CMP correlation knife-edge dizzy gears - P0016 CKP-CMP Correlation case study GM 4.3 V6 - ...jpg
    CKP CMP correlation knife-edge dizzy gears - P0016 CKP-CMP Correlation case study GM 4.3 V6 - ...jpg
    184.4 KB · Views: 7
  • No start No DTCs -Bernie Thompson Automotive Test Solutions.jpg
    No start No DTCs -Bernie Thompson Automotive Test Solutions.jpg
    83.1 KB · Views: 7
Last edited:

KansasOBS

Not Awesome
Joined
Apr 29, 2023
Messages
273
Reaction score
624
Location
Kansas
The cruise control is original to the truck. I used the stock CC and throttle cable’s.

Thank you. Probably sounded like a dumb thing to ask, the way I put it. I swapped in a 6.0, and my cruise doesn't reach. Was a 7.4 with the pass side throttle body, thought I would have had the longest cable that came in these trucks, but I guess I need to find one like yours.

Also sorry to kinda derail your thread, hope you get it sorted.
 

Cudajeff

Newbie
Joined
May 15, 2024
Messages
8
Reaction score
5
Location
Houston
No problem Kansas, I’ve owned this truck for 14 years and haven’t ever changed it. I’m assuming it’s a stock length cable but there’s a possibility it was changed before I bought it.
 

jrb1898

Newbie
Joined
Apr 22, 2024
Messages
2
Reaction score
2
Location
03038
Thank you. Probably sounded like a dumb thing to ask, the way I put it. I swapped in a 6.0, and my cruise doesn't reach. Was a 7.4 with the pass side throttle body, thought I would have had the longest cable that came in these trucks, but I guess I need to find one like yours.

Also sorry to kinda derail your thread, hope you get it sorted.
Kansas, 96 and newer vortec 5.0 & 5.7 motors have a longer cruse control cable then TBI motors. 7.4 motors are different too.

This is a great thread. Hopefully Cudajeff figures out your issue and post the results.
 

Cudajeff

Newbie
Joined
May 15, 2024
Messages
8
Reaction score
5
Location
Houston
Update! Well I haven’t figured out my starting problem yet but I discovered something else that may or may not be related. I had it on the chassis dyno last week and the tuner discovered that the PNRD wires (red pin 62 and blue pin 34) are inexplicably missing at the control module. They are in the harness at the neutral safety switch and then somewhere along the line they disappear. (Or possibly pinned incorrectly but I seriously doubt it) The tuner discovered that the computer didn’t know it was in park. I never knew there were different tune settings in park and in drive. This is an intriguing development but doesn’t necessarily explain why sometimes start on first but always on second. Any thoughts?
 
Top