Doorjamb striker repair.

[that-88cheyenne]

So I recently bought an 88’ cheyenne for a little project truck. The guy I bought it off it had the driver door shut with a piece of metal and pop rivets. He said that the doorjamb striker broke off and the aluminum around it tore out of the cab as well, all im looking for is a way to repair it so I dont have to continue to get in through the passenger side. It is an 88’ Cheyenne with an 8ft bed and it is a single cab, so how do I repair it and what does the doorjamb striker screw into because I believe that is missing to but i cant find the part anywhere

 

[Caman96]

A forum member and Vendor.

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[98_SLE_98]

Happened on a Jimmy that I bought years ago. Ended up cutting the section out of a scrap truck and welding it in place

 

[that-88cheyenne]

Happened on a Jimmy that I bought years ago. Ended up cutting the section out of a scrap truck and welding it in place

That is what I was planning on doing, but what does that striker thread into? Did you have to replace a specific part, does it screw into something in the cab?

 

[that-88cheyenne]

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[Caman96]

Happened on a Jimmy that I bought years ago. Ended up cutting the section out of a scrap truck and welding it in place

but what does that striker thread into?

 

[someotherguy]

There's a nut on the other side of the door jamb sheetmetal. It sounds like the sheetmetal on your jamb is broken, yes? You'll need to cut a piece from a scrap cab and weld it in place; try to make a template from surrounding reference points on the scrap cab before you cut, so you can position it as close as possible on your cab.

Then replace the striker bolt and nut with either brand new ones, or ones from the donor scrap cab. You'll need to remove the B pillar plastic trim to reach inside the cab to access the nut, which will fall down loose once you remove the striker bolt. Some care must be taken to pull the trim plastics - to get the B pillar trim out, you must first remove the lower rear window trim, which first pulls out at the bottom, hinge it toward you a slight amount, then push up. If you have the jack storage tub behind the seat it will need to come out, too. Then remove the shoulder belt retractor, screws out of the B pillar, hinge the B pillar plastic inwards at the bottom and carefully slip it out of the upper rear window trim - it has tabs that interlock with that trim.

They definitely take a beating when the hinge bushings are let go for too long:

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Richard

 

[that-88cheyenne]

There's a nut on the other side of the door jamb sheetmetal. It sounds like the sheetmetal on your jamb is broken, yes? You'll need to cut a piece from a scrap cab and weld it in place; try to make a template from surrounding reference points on the scrap cab before you cut, so you can position it as close as possible on your cab.

Then replace the striker bolt and nut with either brand new ones, or ones from the donor scrap cab. You'll need to remove the B pillar plastic trim to reach inside the cab to access the nut, which will fall down loose once you remove the striker bolt. Some care must be taken to pull the trim plastics - to get the B pillar trim out, you must first remove the lower rear window trim, which first pulls out at the bottom, hinge it toward you a slight amount, then push up. If you have the jack storage tub behind the seat it will need to come out, too. Then remove the shoulder belt retractor, screws out of the B pillar, hinge the B pillar plastic inwards at the bottom and carefully slip it out of the upper rear window trim - it has tabs that interlock with that trim.

They definitely take a beating when the hinge bushings are let go for too long:

You must be registered for see images attach

Richard

Yes the sheetmetal on the doorjamb is damaged so I will have to do what you said and cut things out and try to line it up as best as I can. Now as far as the nut goes behind that sheet metal that the striker threads into, where could i get a new replacement? Also what kind of welder can I use on that sheet metal, I have a little MIG welder I can use but unsure if it would have to be something like TIG so it doesnt burn right through that sheet metal. I have looked at it yet, Ive kept the door riveted shut since I bought it (which was less than a week ago) because I didnt want to not be able to drive it. but the guy did say it only ripped out in a circle so im wondering if I could just buy a little piece of sheet metal the same thickness of the cab and use the hole saw to cut out a circle from the piece of sheet metal I buy a little bigger than the hole ripped out on the actual cab the pop rivet it in, then use a smaller hole saw/drill bit the size of the striker and send it through with a big washer and a nut that fits the threads of the striker to hold it in place. if that makes any sense at all let me know if you think thatll work as well

 

[someotherguy]

The hole in the jamb for the striker bolt is small - it's just slightly larger than the bolt diameter, so there is a slight amount of adjustment.

There's almost surely no need to get a new nut; the one on your truck is probably fine. If the old striker bolt has been discarded with the broken sheetmetal, the nut is probably sitting down inside the cab. If not, get one from the donor scrap cab.

As far as whether your welder will do the job, dunno; that's a question for a bodyman I'd suspect. But the mig is probably just what you need, with the correct settings and technique. I'm not an experienced welder and I'd say if you're not one either, you might want to farm that part of the job out, for best results. You'll want a solid repair here as it's an area that is under a lot of stress. Not only does it have to stand up to the door being slammed against that striker bolt, it also has the very important job of keeping your door closed while you're driving.

Richard

 

[Caman96]

Yes the sheetmetal on the doorjamb is damaged so I will have to do what you said and cut things out and try to line it up as best as I can. Now as far as the nut goes behind that sheet metal that the striker threads into, where could i get a new replacement? Also what kind of welder can I use on that sheet metal, I have a little MIG welder I can use but unsure if it would have to be something like TIG so it doesnt burn right through that sheet metal. I have looked at it yet, Ive kept the door riveted shut since I bought it (which was less than a week ago) because I didnt want to not be able to drive it. but the guy did say it only ripped out in a circle so im wondering if I could just buy a little piece of sheet metal the same thickness of the cab and use the hole saw to cut out a circle from the piece of sheet metal I buy a little bigger than the hole ripped out on the actual cab the pop rivet it in, then use a smaller hole saw/drill bit the size of the striker and send it through with a big washer and a nut that fits the threads of the striker to hold it in place. if that makes any sense at all let me know if you think thatll work as well

If it was me, I would go to a junkyard with a drill and bits large enough to drill holes to get a metal cordless sawzall metal bit through. Cut piece out extra large and bring to a body shop skilled to perform replacement. Or something like that…