Dead spot at WOT in first and second gear.

[Shannon78]

I have a 88 C1500 With a 5 speed 5.7 bored 0.30 with a some what mild cam. Every since the motor was built if you take off hard sometimes shortly before you would change gear it's like the key was turned off as soon as you grab 2nd it's like nothing ever happen and it's fine. I have on rare occasions had it to show in second but that's been maybe twice.
I've replaced pretty much everything from the engine fan to the rear differential on this truck. This has kicked my a$$ though and I'm not really sure what or how to figure out if it's fire or fuel related. Anyone else have this type of problem? Or any suggestions on how to diagnose this issue?

 

[Schurkey]

Given a modified engine, you are likely to need specific "computer tuning" service to adjust the computer to match the engine parameters. However, I'd look at these, first:

TBI distributor pickup coil magnet cracking:

You must be registered for see images attach

Just under the copyright symbol, through the rivet, and onward to the edge, along with a million minor cracks around the edge.

You must be registered for see images attach

The Usual Three:

1. Verify fuel pressure at prime, at idle, and under load. Most fuel pressure gauge assemblies have a push-button pressure release connected to crappy vinyl tubing. Route the tubing so it empties into a drain pan, then push the button while the engine is running. This simulates higher fuel demand if you can't check fuel pressure on the highway. Fuel pressure should remain steady even with fuel flowing down the pressure-relief tubing. How old is the fuel filter? Have you ever dumped a bottle of Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner into the gas tank? (Recommended at every oil change.)
   
2. How old are the usual “tune-up” parts and procedures? Inspect/replace distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, spark plugs. Use quality parts sourced from an authorized seller (NO COUNTERFEIT PARTS FROM AMAZON, EBAY, OR OTHER SKETCHY SELLERS!) Be sure the ignition coil will reliably fire a spark-tester calibrated for HEI when the coil is fully warm, and misted with water from a squirt-bottle. Cranking compression test of all cylinders while the spark plugs are removed. Verify EGR, PCV, EVAP, and Heated Air Intake (if used) systems for proper operation. Verify proper initial timing (TBI) and electronic spark advance (TBI and Vortec). Replace old O2 sensors unless you can PROVE that they're working properly—old O2 sensors get lazy, they don't provide accurate data, but they do provide “data” that fools people into thinking they're “working”.
   
3. Connect a scan tool (NOT a crappy “code reader”) and look for “codes”. More important, look at the data stream to verify EVERY sensor and computer output. Verify fuel trims during the time that the vehicle is not running properly. Look for misfire counts for each cylinder (OBD2 only.) “Codes” have official diagnostic procedures that will be found in the service manual set for your vehicle. The service manual set can be downloaded from the links in the Sticky thread section of the Engine forum on this web site.

 

[Shannon78]

Thanks! I'll check all the above. Distributor was replaced with a new one les than 4 years ago when I built the motor. The rest was replaced in March when I did a tune up on it.

 

[movietvet]

Given a modified engine, you are likely to need specific "computer tuning" service to adjust the computer to match the engine parameters. However, I'd look at these, first:

TBI distributor pickup coil magnet cracking:

You must be registered for see images attach

Just under the copyright symbol, through the rivet, and onward to the edge, along with a million minor cracks around the edge.

You must be registered for see images attach

The Usual Three:

1. Verify fuel pressure at prime, at idle, and under load. Most fuel pressure gauge assemblies have a push-button pressure release connected to crappy vinyl tubing. Route the tubing so it empties into a drain pan, then push the button while the engine is running. This simulates higher fuel demand if you can't check fuel pressure on the highway. Fuel pressure should remain steady even with fuel flowing down the pressure-relief tubing. How old is the fuel filter? Have you ever dumped a bottle of Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner into the gas tank? (Recommended at every oil change.)
   
2. How old are the usual “tune-up” parts and procedures? Inspect/replace distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, spark plugs. Use quality parts sourced from an authorized seller (NO COUNTERFEIT PARTS FROM AMAZON, EBAY, OR OTHER SKETCHY SELLERS!) Be sure the ignition coil will reliably fire a spark-tester calibrated for HEI when the coil is fully warm, and misted with water from a squirt-bottle. Cranking compression test of all cylinders while the spark plugs are removed. Verify EGR, PCV, EVAP, and Heated Air Intake (if used) systems for proper operation. Verify proper initial timing (TBI) and electronic spark advance (TBI and Vortec). Replace old O2 sensors unless you can PROVE that they're working properly—old O2 sensors get lazy, they don't provide accurate data, but they do provide “data” that fools people into thinking they're “working”.
   
3. Connect a scan tool (NOT a crappy “code reader”) and look for “codes”. More important, look at the data stream to verify EVERY sensor and computer output. Verify fuel trims during the time that the vehicle is not running properly. Look for misfire counts for each cylinder (OBD2 only.) “Codes” have official diagnostic procedures that will be found in the service manual set for your vehicle. The service manual set can be downloaded from the links in the Sticky thread section of the Engine forum on this web site.

Do you have a favorite before OBD2 scanner?

 

[Schurkey]

Do you have a favorite before OBD2 scanner?

This has been discussed multiple times in this forum, on too many threads to list.

When it was my money, I bought Snap-On scan tools, used, from sellers on eBay.

First were the very obsolete MT/MTG2500 "Red brick" scanners. I used an MTG2500 with cartridges, vehicle adapters, cables, operator manuals, etc. for up to 6.2 software for about twenty years.

When that was damaged beyond repair perhaps three years ago, I upgraded two generations to a somewhat obsolete Solus Pro with 8.2 software. Did everything I wanted except to auto-bleed the ABS of my '97 K2500. (I have access to a Solus Pro with 14.2 software, which WILL auto-bleed my '97) Suitable (with the correct vehicle adapters, cables, power supplies, etc.) for 1980 1/2--2007 GM, and about the same for Ford, Chrysler, Jeep, etc. plus some Asian imports.

The older Snappy scan tools have NO support from Snap-On any more. No service, no repairs, no software updates. What you buy, is what you end up with. There is support for newer Snappy scan tools.

This chart is old enough that it's no longer current, but it's a good start.

You must be registered for see images attach

A scan tool like these allows you to read information from the computer, and to control certain computer outputs--to change idle speeds in order to assure that the IAC valve is working, for example. Or to divert the AIR system from the exhaust to the air cleaner, as another example. But none of these has the ability to re-program the computer to compensate for a modified engine. That takes specialized equipment.

 

[scott2093]

I have access to a Solus Pro with 14.2 software, which WILL auto-bleed my '97

Do you know which version will do 93K1500 ABS bleed??

dang... wish I weren't strapped......he's splitting them up but still cheap ....

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[Scooterwrench]

I have a 88 C1500 With a 5 speed 5.7 bored 0.30 with a some what mild cam. Every since the motor was built if you take off hard sometimes shortly before you would change gear it's like the key was turned off as soon as you grab 2nd it's like nothing ever happen and it's fine. I have on rare occasions had it to show in second but that's been maybe twice.
I've replaced pretty much everything from the engine fan to the rear differential on this truck. This has kicked my a$$ though and I'm not really sure what or how to figure out if it's fire or fuel related. Anyone else have this type of problem? Or any suggestions on how to diagnose this issue?

If you're running the stock ECM GM set the RPM fuel shut off(rev limiter)at 4800 RPM's and you have probably discovered it shuts down at 98 MPH too. That's the speed fuel cutoff so the cops can catch you.