94 C1500 TBI and 4l60E transmission to mechanical swap

[KilRoyWasHere]

Howdy everyone!

So I'm new to forums and so if I failed to place this in the right spot please let me know I'll try to fix it. But the title basically sums up what I'm trying to do. I'm not new to mechanic work, especially on this truck but I am new to swapping engines and some littler things. Let me explain why I'm going with this rout instead of just replacing the computer for anyone that might get hung up on me just doing that. I have a 94 Silverado C1500 that the computer is giving me fits in and I would like to make it more mechanical. The L05 that it has in it is a good engine but I'm not sure how long it has left without a rebuild being needed and the same can be said for the 4L60E tranny. So what I'm thinking is swapping the engine for a ATK build and the transmission with an 700R4 from Mad Dog. That way I can get the truck back up and running quick without out any future interventions needed and give myself some time to figure out what to do with the old engine and tranny. This is just going to be a street/highway truck, I'm not going to races with it or anything but I do like to go fast on occasions. And if I do decide to just rebuild them and put them back in with a new computer I'll still have the ATK engine and Mad Dog transmission ready to go for a fun build.

Questions

#1 Will the engine I picked work and will I have any problems making it fit?
This is the engine I'm looking at using, basically a L31 block rebuilt with a carb and mechanical fuel pump. It should fit right in without any problems as far as I'm aware that is. If yall know of any hiccups I might run into please let me know.

#2 Will the transmission I picked work and will I have any problems making it fit?
The transmission is a 700R4 from Mad Dog Transmissions, and as far as I know I shouldn't have a problem making the this work with the engine. I believe everything should mount up and work together properly. But if I'm wrong please explain why.

#3 Making the mechanical fuel pump work?
My biggest question with this is, what to do with the electronic fuel pump? I'm not sure how the electronic fuel pump looks because I've never had a problem with it, so I've never had it out to replace it. I'm not sure if there are any replacement covers for just a pickup line or if I can bypass the pump somehow? I was hoping yall might could give some suggestions before I drop the tank and start getting handsy with it? Also I was thinking about putting a pressure gauge under the hood so I could insure that is was getting the right amount to the carb, do yall think that's needed or am I over doing it? Someone also suggested a pressure regulator but I was thinking that was only needed if I stuck with the electronic fuel pump seeing as how it pumps at a higher pressure than the mechanical, am I wrong or is that needed too?

#4 The radiator?
I'm not sure when but I know that by 99 the radiators changed in these trucks and I'm not sure why. I didn't know if it changed in 96 when the started using the L31 or if it changed later but I know it got longer and the oil cooling lines got moved from the left to the right side best as I can remember. So can I keep the original style radiator that I have in the 94 or do I need to swap it for a different on that will work better with this engine? I know a little but not lot about what's needed for this.

#5 The exhaust?
I'm not sure what will be needed here. Not to be cheap but just practical and simple I was hoping that at most I might just need to replace the whole exhaust system (manifold, catalytic converter, muffler) with that of one from a 96-00 model Silverado C1500. I know the exhaust system is similar but it's not the same as what is on my 94 and so I'm thinking the original might not work. I am also not sure of about how much back pressure is going to effect the engine as I'm not too savvy with all that, it might not be a problem and I could just be overthinking it. Again this is just a highway ride but I do want to make it right the first time. So please help me to know what is going to be required here?

#6 Any and all other things?
As this is my first time swapping engines and I do have some smart and experienced help available to me, I still wanted to ask all of you what yalls thoughts were on this. If anyone knows of any other problems I might run into while attempting this please let me know? I'm trying to have a solid game plan before I make any purchases and I start pulling things apart tying up space in the shop. I really want to have all my ducks in a row first.

Thank you to anyone able to help.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Transmission - will work fine but make absolutely sure you get the correct bracket and set up/adjust the throttle valve cable CORRECTLY. Verify your adjustments via a transmission pressure gauge. Failure to do this correctly will result in you burning down that transmission in 10 miles or less.

What carb or injection system will you be running?

 

[KilRoyWasHere]

Transmission - will work fine but make absolutely sure you get the correct bracket and set up/adjust the throttle valve cable CORRECTLY. Verify your adjustments via a transmission pressure gauge. Failure to do this correctly will result in you burning down that transmission in 10 miles or less.

What carb or injection system will you be running?

Thanks for the confirmation on the transmission and for the heads up with TV cable and bracket. I'll make sure I get a transmission pressure gauge and use it also.

I was planning on using this carburetor Quick Fuel 680CFM Vacuum secondary’s electric choke #HR-680. Unless I'm mistaken it comes with the engine. I might be reading it wrong on ATK's website and it's just their recomendation to get their results but I'll probably still use it.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Thanks for the confirmation on the transmission and for the heads up with TV cable and bracket. I'll make sure I get a transmission pressure gauge and use it also.

I was planning on using this carburetor Quick Fuel 680CFM Vacuum secondary’s electric choke #HR-680. Unless I'm mistaken it comes with the engine. I might be reading it wrong on ATK's website and it's just their recomendation to get their results but I'll probably still use it.

You're welcome. Here are some instructions for set up, testing etc: https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/bmm-9500377-04.pdf

 

[KilRoyWasHere]

You're welcome. Here are some instructions for set up, testing etc: https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/bmm-9500377-04.pdf

Cool, thanks for the help.

 

[GoToGuy]

How do you know you have computer problem? If your not familiar with testing or scanner diagnostics it might as well be magic.
Radiator..? What are talking you about. Trans cooler in radiator? Or engine oil cooler ? What change? Has EOC or not. Some big block radiators are taller with different, stepped upper mounts.
Do you have the factory service manual , the " 1994 Drivability, Emissions, and Electric diagnosis " manual ? It's step by step testing. It's available for free PDF in the engine thread sticky above.
I'd rather fix and rebuild what I have than a complex conversion and then reverting back. Way to much work.

 

[KilRoyWasHere]

How do you know you have computer problem? If your not familiar with testing or scanner diagnostics it might as well be magic.
Radiator..? What are talking you about. Trans cooler in radiator? Or engine oil cooler ? What change? Has EOC or not. Some big block radiators are taller with different, stepped upper mounts.
Do you have the factory service manual , the " 1994 Drivability, Emissions, and Electric diagnosis " manual ? It's step by step testing. It's available for free PDF in the engine thread sticky above.
I'd rather fix and rebuild what I have than a complex conversion and then reverting back. Way to much work.

Hi Guy,

I'm fairly certain I have a computer problem because I know there is nothing wrong with my engine or my transmission or the the throttle body, but it was still throwing codes. Simple codes like map sensor out or bad EGR or C02 sensor and other nonsense things that I ended up replacing and granted those things might all have been bad and needed replacing. But nothing helped the refusal to shift when it should even though I replaced all the solenoids and electric components including wiring harness in transmission. That being said when it did finally shift it was smooth. But the last day it was willing to run it had got up to 3rd but when it fell out it wouldn't want to accelerate and then fell out of 2nd and the it just stopped moving but it would rev up PRMs the whole time, it just would not accelerate. Now this was my truck I left at home when I went to the Army and I had slight trouble years prior to joining but it was running fine when I left. And it just kinda fell apart when I was gone and no it was not mistreated while I was gone. My father took care of it, using it to go to church and drive around our small town.

So now that I've explained in-depth more about why I don't want to bother with it, even though I stated in my original post I am done with Computers and want it to be Mechanical. Also its not a complex conversion, the engine is practically the same. They are the same size, go in the same body style and have the same mounting brackets. And the transmission is no different, the only added thing I have to do is run a TV cable fort hem. As for the other things I listed they are complex problems, I know that I can make it all work with relative ease but I thought I would post on this sight and maybe some kind people would have already done something similar and be able to give me a heads up on what to do before I take it all apart.

As for the the radiator, I have not worked on every Silverado from 88-98 but everyone that I have worked on has both transmission cooling lines and engine oil cooling lines running into the radiator. Now if I'm remembering correctly the 99-02s who's bodies and engines are the same had their engine oil cooling lines moved from the driver side of the radiator to the passenger side and the radiator was longer. Longer meaning the distance from the left side to the right side increased. Now I do have a family member with a 99 suburban I can look at but I wasn't sure if the changes in the radiator were made in 96 with the new engine or later. If it was made to accommodate the L31 engine then I just wanted to know so I can have the radiator and lines ready when a start replacing things.

Now if I don't get any other helpful advise than what Nick has already given me then that's fine because I know I can make this work. I was just hoping that the folks on here might be able to give me tips or info on any anything I might not be aware of.

So you may want to fix and rebuild but I don't. I'm going to do this swap, I'm going to have fun with, and I'm going to be happy at the end of it. So go play with your plane engine Guy and I'll work on my "complex conversion."

 

[GoToGuy]

I don't believe in making personal attacks, if that's your thing oh well, life is short.
If it's a GMT 400 platform ( including the carry overs after the LS engine appeared) with TBI or Vortec engine its engine oil cooler on the left if installed and trans cooler on the right. Everything changed with the LS , 4.8, 5.3 and so on.
If you'd done a little research you'd have seen a few Vortec truck models carried over even as the 800 series with LS debuted.
Have fun

 

[Erik the Awful]

It sounds like you're new to the hobby and don't have a lot of experience, and you think getting rid of the electronics will get rid of your problems. An all-mechanical setup on a truck that wasn't all mechanical to begin with is a recipe for more problems. If you can't answer your own question about the fuel pump, your skill level isn't up to this. You'll be facing a lot of small problems along the way that will require experience.

I'm not telling you "don't do it", instead I'm telling you that this will require a lot more learning curve than just learning how to correctly diagnose the EFI.

For far less than the $6900 you're currently budgeting you can pay someone else to fix it right. Sure, it's a hit to your pride if you want to be a "truck guy", but it's a practical solution. I won't fault a guy for using the money wrench when it makes sense. I farm stuff out all the time. Spending $6900 chasing a driveability problem on a truck that's likely not worth $6900 (I'm guessing here, apologies if your truck is showroom clean) doesn't make sense.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

^^^What others have said above.

Besides that, ATK engines don't have a good rating, check reviews all over the place