1997 suburban k1500 5.7 distributor — noob

[moops]

Hi everyone. My truck came with a cam/crank correlation code. I used my scan tool to check the offset of the #1 (at operating temperature over 1000rpm) and it was 2°. So I loosened the mounting bolt a little and turned the distributor assembly and rescanned until the offset was 0°. The idle got much rougher and it started missing, and the code didn’t go away either (I cleared it and it came back), so I decided to take the distributor out, reset the #1 to tdc, etc. The pointer on the distributor has a 6 on it. It’s a V8 5.7. Is this a problem at all?

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[moops]

Also, how long of a screwdriver am I going to need to get to the oil pump drive shaft?

 

[moops]

Also, how long of a screwdriver am I going to need to get to the oil pump drive shaft?

Maybe this is a stupid question. Probably no longer than the distributor shaft, right?

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[GoToGuy]

got in one.

 

[Road Trip]

Maybe this is a stupid question. Probably no longer than the distributor shaft, right?

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Not a stupid question at all. From the looks of your photo the screwdriver handle will end up just
partially above the opening in the intake manifold for your distributor. Should just work, but might be a
little difficult where you are trying to reach in and make the adjustment.

On the other hand, this 12" screwdriver has worked for me in the past to accomplish this very task:

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FWIW --

 

[Schurkey]

My truck came with a cam/crank correlation code. I used my scan tool to check the offset of the #1 (at operating temperature over 1000rpm) and it was 2°. So I loosened the mounting bolt a little and turned the distributor assembly and rescanned until the offset was 0°.

2 degrees is the tolerance. Shouldn't set a code, shouldn't need to be adjusted.

The idle got much rougher and it started missing, and the code didn’t go away either (I cleared it and it came back),

Are you sure your scan tool is operating correctly? I'm wondering if your scan tool is lying to you about the cam/crank correlation.

so I decided to take the distributor out, reset the #1 to tdc, etc. The pointer on the distributor has a 6 on it. It’s a V8 5.7. Is this a problem at all?

Nope. All the distributor bodies have both the "6" and the "8" molded into them. Keep looking for the "8". Be certain that #1 is on TDC-Compression, not TDC-Exhaust.

While the distributor is out, verify the distributor gear (known for excessive wear) and the main shaft slop in the housing (housing/bushings commonly wiped-out.)

The United Motor Products vented distributor cap, and rotor have a lot of love on this forum.

Also, how long of a screwdriver am I going to need to get to the oil pump drive shaft?

Maybe that's helpful on the Vortec engines. I've never set a Vortec distributor, although at some point I'm gonna have to do that on my 97 K2500 7.4L.

On non-Vortec engines, I just crank the starter in short bursts until the distributor aligns with the oil pump shaft, and drops the last little bit onto the intake manifold. Then I return to TDC-Compression to finish the job. I don't know why this would not work on Vortecs...but as I said, I've never done it.

 

[moops]

2 degrees is the tolerance. Shouldn't set a code, shouldn't need to be adjusted.


Are you sure your scan tool is operating correctly? I'm wondering if your scan tool is lying to you about the cam/crank correlation.

I had read or seen somewhere that the tolerance was 1.5. Either way I understand what you’re saying.

The tool is not lying about the code.the guy I brought it from also got the code, after he replaced the distributor.

It might be lying about the offset. I replaced the cam position sensor with a Delphi sensor while I have it out. Maybe that’s part of the issue? I have a crank sensor as well if I need it.

 

[Road Trip]

The pointer on the distributor has a 6 on it. It’s a V8 5.7. Is this a problem at all?

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Just out of curiosity, does the base of your distributor *also* have this '8' marking on it as shown in this diagram?

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I ask because I'm trying to understand how you got a 0° reading but the P1345 won't clear? I know that
both the 4.3 V6 and 5.0/5.7 V8s share the same 13-tooth mechanical interface with their cams, but I'm not so
sure if there's a difference between V6 & V8 CMP sensors & trigger wheel?

Something doesn't add up here. Getting a 0° reported yet the P1345 doesn't clear, and it's also running rough?
(Assuming everything else is good.)

Let us know if you also have the '8' marking on your dizzy housing.

 

[moops]

As for compression vs exhaust I used the thumb in the spark plug trick to confirm that.

 

[moops]

yes I did find the “8”. It was buried by grease.