14 bolt 454 1991 differential ID question again

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Diver

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I recently picked up a 14 bolt rear end 5 lug . Outside is pretty rusty for sitting outside. My plan is to put it in my 88 c1500 2wd. I pulled the cover off and it is 373 with locker. Has backing plates with drum brakes . I will post pictures as soon as i can,
My question is what problems should i be looking for. Not racing just bought for towing
thanks all
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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I recently picked up a 14 bolt rear end 5 lug . Outside is pretty rusty for sitting outside ... what problems should i be looking for.

I bought a rear once... it must have been sitting on the ground for quite some time because it had extensive rust.

Rust perforated the axle tube and it started leaking fluid while I had it sitting on sawhorses.

All I wanted was the carrier and gears so the axle tube's condition wasn't a concern, except for the oil mess it left on the floor.
 
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phantom 309

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I recently picked up a 14 bolt rear end 5 lug . Outside is pretty rusty for sitting outside. My plan is to put it in my 88 c1500 2wd. I pulled the cover off and it is 373 with locker. Has backing plates with drum brakes . I will post pictures as soon as i can,
My question is what problems should i be looking for. Not racing just bought for towing
thanks all
Pretty rare rear end,.454 ss trucks only iirc...?
 

RichLo

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Yea, that is a rare rear end.

Check the axle tubes like 1998_K1500 said. The common bad spats are where the u-bolts clamp to the leaf springs and check the plug welds where the tubes go into the diff housing.

I would replace the axle bearings and seals at least and possibly the pinion seal if there is any sign it was leaking before.
 

Schurkey

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"I" would pull the cover, inspect all the gears--ring, pinion (hard to see) side and spider gears. You don't want to see something like this:
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Pull out the axle shafts, make sure the bearing and seal surfaces are acceptable. Again, you don't want to see this:
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or this:
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Fix whatever you find to be defective...but...I would not replace bearings or seals unless you can prove that they're worn.

Expect to need to do brake work--wheel cylinders, shoes, inspect/turn/replace drums, springs and hardware, flush the brake fluid including using a scan tool on the ABS, etc.

Fresh gear lube and a gasket on the cover. Four new U-bolts, and the U-bolt plates that came on the 14-bolt semi-float axle. A conversion U-joint, Precision 441 or equivalent, I think. Re-use your park brake cables unless they're worn/seized. Probably fresh rear brake hose, and brake tubes from hose to wheel cylinders.
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1998_K1500_Sub

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(edit) I've re-written this and re-posted it.

The C/K2500-3500 leaf spring anchor plates, if you choose to use them, are available new on RockAuto for about $18/ea.

I bought them the other day and have confirmed fitment on my 9.5” 3.375"OD axle tubes. Their bolt holes accommodate the threads on a 5/8” U-bolt.

P/N 15592588 is supposedly for C/K2500 & C/K3500, which AFAIK use the 9.5" or 10.5" rear with 3.375" OD tubes.

P/N 15592586 is supposedly for C/K1500, I assume 8.5" with 3.125" OD tubes.

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Diver

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Thanks for all the info everyone. I completely disassembled the differential. Bought new seals, bearings for diff and axles . For some reason someone cut the spring perches off . I found out that my backing plates brakes and all swap in from my truck .Hopping to jut hang aside without unhooking brake lines.
The axles looked good to me but i had them checked and shop said they should be fine . I bought new spring perch's , Also found out my 10 bolt pinion yoke fit fine with the 14 bolt dust cover Now just looking for a pair of bottom axle saddle's or the larger tubes . Im hoping in a week or so to have it in the truck..
I may weld up tubes ,not sure yet. Not a truck for speed just for towing my trailers. My 76 years have taken a toll on mind and body lol
 
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