Completely boggled !! 4” spindle lift 2wd stock 15” wheels rub~ not the tires just the rim lip

This makes zero sense
I’ve done 3 rc 2wd spindle lifts already one on a 97 and one on this suburban. I took it off and sold it , decided liked it lifted .. and I’m getting wheel rub on the stock factory rim.
You can see where it’s rubbinf away the paint and grinding on the knuckle. These are 99.9% perfectly machined spindles that’s why I use rc
I don’t know or recall if you can use a 15” wheel on the 2wd or need 16 or larger
I rode my 94 suburban with stock 15s wheels just fine . Is this a thing did I miss something wtf.. this is my daily

Here’s a pic of the wheel off with an identical spare rim to the one with the tires on and it shows the rubbing
The spindles snug everything is correct and the wheel free spinning clears
It’s not only until you back up it cambers and catches the knuckle
And there isn’t any out if round spinning I can see with the wheel and the spindle shaft …

Another theory was the rub mark may just be bad machine work and they left too much ( stock) on the knuckle wasn’t cut back far enough??
Usually I run 20s on these lifts but I sold my moto 20s so this should do it has before .

Another HUGE WT* when I go in reverse after doing the swap the front wheels tilt with a negative camber pretty drastic as I back up slowly ? Can that be from setting the alignment by hand wrong to much ( toe-in) maybe?

As i am slowly reversing it pulls them into a huge ( Neg- camber) ? That’s what I see happening and when I go forward they vertically even back out and sorta go into a slight positive camber lean
I never had this issue before with the spindle lifts I’ve done them many times and all my front components are new or if they aren’t they aren’t worn


See where the spindle gap between the wheel ? And when I back up it eventually rubs ?? How in the he** is that even theoretically possible


New paint rub mark ~>

Update :

I decided to test the issue with the
( extra ) 2” spacers I had still that I used on the rear previous to even out the stance since the lift spindles give 1 inch extra width.
Using those 2 inch spindles on the front cleared up the whole entire clearance issue with the spindle and wheel although it sticks out a little bit too much so I assume the solution here is to get wheels again 16” or larger and or for now get a 1” set of spacers for the front and swap the 2” back to the rear .

This still doesn’t clear up the -Neg camber that occurs during back up ?
I mean it’s off unless it’s a
coil spring and a- arm phenomenon on lifted c/k trucks . I know the front end alignment is off to some degree but I got it close for the time being . That’s why I suspected maybe the toe-in during reverse was or could cause the -
Neg~ camber .
Basically, I get quite a bit of degree of negative camber while backing up and slight positive Canberra while going forward in a driveway , but on the road it seems to drive just fine as of now and with what I’ve done
Any suggestive feedback with what could be causing this as well as 4 inch lift spindles needing larger wheels rough country never stated that or at least I didn’t see it.
it’s gonna have to do until I get the 1” spacers in for the front ordered and swap these 2” to the back plus I need larger tires to begin with.

Wheels are too small. It’s like running a 15” wheel on a lowered truck. It rubs the LCA. With a 4” spindle lift it’s probably going to rub the spindle.

Your ABS wire is roached.

You should 100% get it professionally aligned.

Is this the suburban that you: had lifted, put back to stock, lowered it (?), and now you’re lifting it again?

fancyTBI said:

Wheels are too small. It’s like running a 15” wheel on a lowered truck.

Click to expand...

I ran a 15” stock on my 94 with the same lift spindles..bought it that way never rubbed anything I think the back spacing is off on the wheels 5.5” stock is to much a 4.5” 15 would probably work fine . As mentioned I ran 17s and 20s fine I can’t recall why this didn’t happen then and is now.
Yes it is the suburban I lifted lowered wnd now lifted back .. I never got rid of my lift parts I just tested the field with everything.. didn’t like the drop on a suv didn’t feel the c notch gave enough enjoyable clearance as the pickups offer .. so I said I’ll lift it again .. it’s just a hobby .. live n learn .. getting good at it ~Lol
Should have kept my 20s but let them go.
I’ll get some 16s or 17s soon or find a set of jeep wheels with a 4.5” back spacing and some 31s I think that will clear the spindle .. I’d rather not run spacers on front at all .

I haven’t even got any kind of alignment yet due to the fact I been waiting to finish all the front suspension parts one by one for the last year ..and the last was the 500$ borgeson I just did last week.


I fully understand the wheel issue at this point.. but i curious the cause of the neg- camber when backing up in driveways , it did this on the stock spindles and stock suspension up front also.
I can only assume alignment toe in toe out being off by a large margin causes it to drag the wheel inward

fancyTBI said:

Your ABS wire is roached.

Click to expand...

That happened when I 5/7 dropped it ,, never figured out how to get it in one good position , it found its way and it rubbed the tires .. it’s not thru the wiring (yet) it’s just through the coating . I’m gonna replace that as well.

This is the pic Showing the inward neg~ camber only when reversing . Found an article on a nova forum explaining potentially the reason is due to to much toe-in . Likely I hope that all it is from a diy alignment.
The bottom of the tires will pull inward during reverse and cause -neg camber if the toe in is to much

Go get it aligned

Get bigger wheels

stop using rough country garbage

it's that simple

That negative camber is crazy. Some suspension designs will do it a little bit, but that's a lot! Get it aligned.

Vikingdude said:

That negative camber is crazy. Some suspension designs will do it a little bit, but that's a lot! Get it aligned.

Click to expand...

It may be a one sided issue with the new TTX Balljoints i am using
I’ve tried lifting it back to stock and drop spindles and the neg camber when reversing is there In every scenario.

I got an alignment drives steers A1 it still seems to be there when reversing the truck. That or the lower control arms are bending upward from trimming the
(drip rail) near where the lower ball joint seats to much to clear the 15 inch rims when I had the lower suspension at the point when I did the front drop .

It’s either shady ball joints seating incorrectly or arms are slowly folding in on me .. I feel like at this point hard to tell ..
But the geometry of an upper and lower arm and spindle connected should not allow the lower arm to loose its angle or position. The upper arm would essentially keep the lower A arm from bending on any type of suspension travel . I just thought maybe the lower ball joint surrounding area is weak. I could post some pics of the trimming I’ve done maybe it was too excessive at that point.
Could need to start with new set of LCAs

Camber is dynamic while turning, and through vertical suspension travel. It SHOULD NOT be dynamic because you happen to put it in reverse. Something is very wrong and the alignment guys should have seen it.