Cam choice- LT1 or summit 8800?

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Erik the Awful

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As I understand it, the intake centerline can be offset from "straight up". I can advance or retard the cam in my calculations, but it helps to know how the cam manufacturer ground it. Disclaimer, I just had a double-shot of gin after a long day, so apologies if I'm off a bit.
 

Supercharged111

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As I understand it, the intake centerline can be offset from "straight up". I can advance or retard the cam in my calculations, but it helps to know how the cam manufacturer ground it. Disclaimer, I just had a double-shot of gin after a long day, so apologies if I'm off a bit.

A 110 ICL = a significantly advanced LT1 cam.
 
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I just edited my post to make it more clear but shim gaskets can be prone to water leaks and head gasket failures. Fresh deck and head surfacing it pretty much a prerequisite in an effort to reduce failures. Short of perfect surfaces better off with the thinnest composite or mls coated gasket like Cometic. Quench is important, moreso on a 10:1, cammed up 7k screamer running the ragged edge of cylinder pressures on what you can do on pump gas/detonation is a bit different than 9.3cr very mildly cammed cruiser. It's almost impossible to get to ideal quench numbers without doing all the measurements , calculations, and decking the block for it and they were built at the factory with none. You wouldn't lose, just not gain. Just don't think you're all that close to being horrifically detonation prone with the tuning dialed in where perfect quench is the end all be all.

Wallace Racing has a ton of calculators for engine builds, CR, DCR, gear ratio's, all kinds of stuff for brackets racers, etc.
Thanks gain for the clarification.
And holy crap those cosmetic gaskets are expensive. almost $350 for a set summit, $470 from cosmetic themselves.
Guess ill be sticking with the OEM .28 gasket.
 

Supercharged111

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Thanks, it's a real pain in the butt finding relaible ICL numbers. It looks like some cam grinders build advance into their cams and some don't. What's the stock ICL on an LT1 cam?

There was more than 1, but they were in the 116-117 LSA range. I don't recall advance or retard being ground in.
 

L31MaxExpress

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There was more than 1, but they were in the 116-117 LSA range. I don't recall advance or retard being ground in.
That was what I was saying in an earlier post. The LT1 cams are straight up. The ICL is the same as the LSA for a given year. The exception is the LT4, it is retarded 1 degree. 116 ICL and 115 LSA.
 

Erik the Awful

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I just realized that in my previous numbers I didn't override the cylinder bore. Here's the sheet with correct numbers and a 117* ICL. Note that the "Optimum LSA" is for max power, and not necessarily a good truck engine.

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Hipster

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The 8.21 DCR is pretty much aluminum head territory and much higher than the 7.54 or whatever it was that was posted previously, which I thought sounded rather low for 10.3ish static with short duration cam. Big negative on doable on pump gas. .028 drops static to 9.8ish static according to my calc's @ Wallace with no quench and can be in the detonation danger zone so .028's are not a good option either. If you have to back up timing to get it to run your killing power so not a best case scenario either.

I've done 10.5 iron headed. It needed some race gas mixed in to run right. 10.+ iron headed on pump gas ford, chevy, or mopar is not typically doable even with quench. Every pro head porter I've dealt with has told me to stay out of swirl port heads at anything beyond a minimal bowl blend and cleaning up casting boogers. Kill the swirl effect, or too much cross sectional area in the wrong place and it's not hard to end up where an untouched head moves more air with better cylinder filling/combustion efficiencies etc.

Kinda funny the program lists optimal LSA at 107. I think I hear Vizard laughing, and damn right you need to be careful what the internet weirdos link to and promote.
 
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Scooterwrench

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I just edited my post to make it more clear but shim gaskets can be prone to water leaks and head gasket failures.
Back in the old days those are what GM used on all their small blocks. Never had problems with them unless you tried to melt the engine. If you install them dry you are setting yourself up for problems. Smear a thin coat of non-detergent 30w on the heads and block surfaces,torque them down right and they'll last forever.
 

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