Down the rabbit hole: first build

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Ccato

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I want to make a post documenting my first engine swap gone restoration. My truck is not complete, but will be updating as I work on it. I am (still?) a beginner, so hopefully this helps someone along the way. Pictures and things I learned will be included. My budget was short when I started, but has grown as I had to become realistic with what I expect from a project to DAILY driver. First, a little background. Then, my lessons.

I didn’t grow up wrenching. I started about 15 years ago out of necessity but mostly maintenance type of repairs, 1-2/5 for difficulty. I got my 1991 K1500 two years ago as a going to town rig with a plan to occasionally tinker. That snowballed quickly as to keep it running, and as of Dec 2023 the tired 350 had enough. The truck stays about an hour from me and I work on it over available weekends. Enter the rabbit hole and adding some to difficulty.

A moderately skilled friend helped me pull the motor. Yanked it out with a tractor and only suffered a ground strap as a casualty (must check for grounds). I taped, bagged, and labeled every single nut, bolt, sensor, line, and bracket. All of this is backed up by a notebook logging what’s been done, parts to get, and what can be salvaged. While the engine is out I’ve been sanding and coating the frame with Eastwood rust encapsulator (more on this later under what I learned). I never thought I’d learn rust repair, but it’s an invaluable skill and a necessary part of this now restoration. The wiring harness has scotch connectors all over, so I will learn to solder. I’ve taken up treating all the brackets and anything metal under the hood, including hardware.

I painted the firewall. That was a nightmare. Learning how to paint a section on top of everything else was overwhelming. I should have taken more steps to ensuring a clean surface before giving it the rattle can. So I’m going to start over and give myself a clean conscience about the quality of my work.

Now the fun part. I’m going with a 383 and plan to order from Smeding. 3yr/unlimited mile warranty is just right. Initially the plan was to have a shop rebuild the 350 as it met the budget, but I’m here to do this once. I have spent MONTHS researching and the 383 meets my requirements. Reading the experiences of forum members and wanting a reliable daily driver/tow rig brought me here. More to follow as I order.

Things I learned

The forum members are a wealth of knowledge and most of what is needed can be found in the search bar. The seasoned members are excellent guides. Honorable mentions to @PlayingWithTBI @Schurkey @L31MaxExpress @Erik the Awful. Not everyone agrees on how to do something, but there are standards.

There is a right way, a wrong way, and a way that works. Pick which one helps you sleep at night. Repair manuals are a great resource.

Read, read, and more reading. I ordered books so I can understand and ask better questions.

Wear PPE. Enough said.

I use mostly hand tools, that’s just what I have. Some tools are a necessity and that’s an expense to factor, but problem solving with what you have will add confidence.

Buy once, cry once. Budgets vary, and must be followed. However, it’s more expensive to do a repair twice. I chose Eastwood products based on my research, your mileage may vary. AC Delco for electronics, and most stock replacements. If going custom, that’s another rabbit hole.

Plan before buying! I’m stuck with a few things I don’t need or don’t want. I bought before I had a focused design and purpose for my truck. I’m creating a daily driver with good towing ability. Once that was defined, all of the systems affecting my plan were focused and purchases precise.

TBI is not underpowered. It’s misunderstood.

Thank you for joining! I will upload pictures and update with parts.
 

Drunkcanuk

I'm Awesome
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First off, welcome from Alberta Canada.
That was a great write-up and back story. Sounds like you have a hell of a plan, that's awesome. I have had a few learning opportunities with my build, wish I could donate few things over, but I kinda stumbled upon the money quickly and had almost 30yrs of pent up energy to just buy stuff!!! Lol

And your choice of engine is a good one, but pay close attention to the warranty fine print. Like if it has to be installed by a certified mechanic shop etc.

Those names you dropped are definitely worth the price of admission here, some smart people definitely willing to help others, part of the reason I joined, and definitely the reason I stay.

I'm excited for you and can't wait for a build thread to start, and pictures to start rolling in.
 

PlayingWithTBI

2022 Truck of the Year
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TBI is not underpowered. It’s misunderstood.
:lol: :waytogo:

Thank you for joining! I will upload pictures and update with parts.
Sounds great! It will be fun to join in, help, and learn from your experiences. Yes, pics are always appreciated!

I wonder if this thread should be moved to "Member Trucks"?
 

GrimsterGMC

Thunder from "Down Under"
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Welcome from New Zealand, it's great to be able to follow another truck restoration journey. The best advice I can offer is never be afraid to ask questions, even if they sound obvious, we all had to start somewhere. Take pics where ever you can and post with your updates, I always get so involved in what I am doing that I forget until the end and it's too late.
 

Ccato

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This is where it started, meet “Berta.” 1991 K1500 with a pretty straight body. Underneath looked good, but the more I dig the more surprises I find.
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January 2023 the engine got pulled with a moderately savvy friend. We are both better at taking apart than putting together, but aren’t we all? I’ve been traveling over an hour to work on it with available weekends. Slow but steady.
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Here is a (above) before and (below) after of degreaser, surface conditioning tool, and wire brush. I had to repeat the process about 10 times to get it this clean. I didn’t have the heart to take it to frame only, mostly due to the work space. I will have to find the picture of the frame after it’s been coated, this is still bare metal.

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Here is my attempt at painting the firewall. I opted to do half at first in order to check my results. Sanded, treated a few rust spots, primer and paint from a can. I did not have a squeaky clean surface when I sprayed, so I will undo my work and do it right. It’s a lot of work for a firewall, but I don’t want the paint to peel and fight rust later on.
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More to come and will update what’s been done this weekend. For the record, I was taking it to a shop for things like AC, steering, and anything engine related. The 350 started knocking on heavens door so I decided to finally learn how to do this myself. I started with only wanting to swap the engine, then “Berta” gave me plenty of surprises. So here we are. My wife is cheering me on for the 383 (get you one like mine) so that we can pull a camper trailer. Plenty more work to do before it’s ready to accept a new engine and then get road ready.
 

GrimsterGMC

Thunder from "Down Under"
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This is where it started, meet “Berta.” 1991 K1500 with a pretty straight body. Underneath looked good, but the more I dig the more surprises I find.
You must be registered for see images attach



January 2023 the engine got pulled with a moderately savvy friend. We are both better at taking apart than putting together, but aren’t we all? I’ve been traveling over an hour to work on it with available weekends. Slow but steady.
You must be registered for see images attach




Here is a (above) before and (below) after of degreaser, surface conditioning tool, and wire brush. I had to repeat the process about 10 times to get it this clean. I didn’t have the heart to take it to frame only, mostly due to the work space. I will have to find the picture of the frame after it’s been coated, this is still bare metal.

You must be registered for see images attach


Here is my attempt at painting the firewall. I opted to do half at first in order to check my results. Sanded, treated a few rust spots, primer and paint from a can. I did not have a squeaky clean surface when I sprayed, so I will undo my work and do it right. It’s a lot of work for a firewall, but I don’t want the paint to peel and fight rust later on.
You must be registered for see images attach


More to come and will update what’s been done this weekend. For the record, I was taking it to a shop for things like AC, steering, and anything engine related. The 350 started knocking on heavens door so I decided to finally learn how to do this myself. I started with only wanting to swap the engine, then “Berta” gave me plenty of surprises. So here we are. My wife is cheering me on for the 383 (get you one like mine) so that we can pull a camper trailer. Plenty more work to do before it’s ready to accept a new engine and then get road ready.
Looking good, and it always helps to have the wife onboard considering the amount of money being invested.
 

Ccato

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It has been a few weeks since an update. In this time I have only had 2 sessions working on the truck, but ordered a lot of parts. I'm currently putting together a parts list with numbers that I will post, but that will come as it's completed. A couple of specialty tools were purchased, to which finding what I needed was a learning curve itself.

Session 1
Changing U bolts and spacer.
While this isn't an exciting topic, I had a lot of challenges here. I replaced the anchor plate, U-bolts, and nuts. As you can see from the pictures, there was a LOT of rust. The axle housing is corroded enough I will be replacing down the road (another reason to go 14 bolt), so only parts of it were treated. The spacer had a few scratches on it from factory, and I regret not scuffing and spraying with encapsulator. So that will be a project for later to prevent rust. There is another spacer at the top of the leaf packet, that I cleaned and treated with converter and encapsulator.
The old bolts were so rusted I needed to (finally) learn to use a torch. That didn't help a lot, so I learned about cutting with a sawzall and then using a breaker bar to finish the job. I don't have much for power tools, otherwise I would have loved an impact wrench here. The axle tube was then cleaned with a wire wheel, followed by plenty of degreaser. I followed that up with rust converter (not encapsulator) and let cure prior to installing the new hardware. This was my first time using anti-seize (among other things) so some learning had to take place here. When using anti-seize the bolts should be torqued 20% less than standard spec. The U-bolts call for 81 ft-lb, I torqued to 75 ft-lb because the 20% reduced 65 ft-lb makes me uncomfortable. Nuts and washers were purchased from ACE Hardware, and I opted for grade 8 or marine equivalent.

Haynes Reference Manual

Leaf spring plate R/L - SKY01322 and SKY01321 $20.79 + $23.79


AC Delco 11588342
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Session 2
Cab mount bushings
This was reasonably easy, except for the rusty bolts (here we go again). It's simple enough to place a jack under the cab and lift it with a 2x4 to separate cab from frame. I had to fasten a few pieces of 2x4 at 2ft long to get the lift I needed as my jack was fully extended. I wound up with a 10 inch tall block to get the job done. First step is to loosen ALL of the cab mount bolts, then lift one side with the jack and swap the bushings and bolts. While I'm in there I'm scuffing the top of the frame, cleaning, and applying rust encapsulator.
One rusty bolt really got the best of me. It broke in a place I could not remove the spacer or bushing. So I had to use a box blade to cut the rubber bushing out, which gave me clearance to remove the spacer after lifting the cab up higher than I care to admit. The parking brake cable was hanging on for dear life, so looking back I wish I would've taken the time to disassemble it. I spent about an hour trying to get the bolt out with vice grips, using a nut with the few threads visible, even removing the interior to access from the top and drill it out. I ordered a broken bolt/stud removal tool and had it out within 30 seconds. If I learn to weld this could've been simpler by tacking a nut on there, but you'll see in the picture there wasn't much to grab. My research lead me to Powerbuilt Stud Extractor Tool. It has a cam gear, 1/4 to 3/4 suds, and great reviews.
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So now I have some rusty cab mounts to replace, and that means finding someone to weld them on. For now I cleaned them and applied some rust treatment.

CAB BUSHING SPACERS ARE NOT SOLD INDIVIDUALLY. This is the piece that goes between the cab and upper bushing. If you want new, they come as a full bushing +hardware from Dorman. Regarding a single cab, there are 3 sizes - Radiator, front, and rear. The bolts and spacers are different for each. I made the mistake of purchasing 4 front bolts individually, so completion of this project is delayed. I found a good parts truck and removed the cab bushing spacers, treated for rust, then coated with encapsulator (see picture for before and after). I went with polyurethane bushings, which require a special lube. If your set did not come with lube, look for a Silicone lube with PTFE like https://www.super-lube.com/multi-purpose-lubricant-with-syncolon. White lithium is acceptable, but not as durable. These lubricants are to prevent squeaking with the poly bushings.
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This weekend I will be finishing the cab mounts, cleaning and painting the underside of the cab, and prep the firewall for paint. There is still a lot to do and learn before my engine is ready for install. Thanks to the community for all the help and knowledge!
 
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