1993 Yukon crate motor hydraulic roller lifter cleaning and adjustment journey - (Solved)

scott2093 said:

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I think he said his were from an 88... but he had mentioned older when referencing what his Dad told him to get.....

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There's two versions of those valve covers, that I know of.

Some are centerbolt, like your link/photo. Some have the four perimeter bolts.

I've had both styles on my '88 K1500; depending on which cylinder heads were installed at the time.

scott2093 said:

I had brought up in the lounge that there's a young guy who works at Autozone that has a 95 gmt...He let me look at at and he fired up the truck.
It was then I realized how broken mine sounded...lol
I swear the exhaust drowned out any sound of the motor it was so quiet. And the exhaust wasn't obnoxious, just nice tone. Same motor as mine..no vortec...
He has the Vette valve covers....

Looking around just for kicks of course..lol, I see some of them don't have the deflector shields under the openings. Those must be important I'm sure... I see the deflectors here

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I think he said his were from an 88... but he had mentioned older when referencing what his Dad told him to get.....

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Seems many of that style VC are cast magnesium and seems all have little to no room for any roller rockers.

Comp Cams Pro Magnum roller rockers under mine.

Much confusion over the lifter rebuild process. Mixed up, dropped pieces, etc. I'm wondering if by chance they didn't end up in the original bores on the same lobes. kind of hate to see someone spend on lifters, marry them to the cam and then find a cam bearing journal issue making the new lifters useless. Bearing material is not magnetic. Sometimes digging in is the better method. Once something starts making metal shavings they don't fix themselves.

Hipster said:

Mixed up, dropped pieces, etc

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Dropped a check ball and the check ball spring was hiding in the main spring . But this was for 1 lifter. No mixed up pieces.

Hipster said:

I'm wondering if by chance they didn't end up in the original bores on the same lobes

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Anything is possible since I was burning the candle at both ends but I'm pretty sure everything is ok. Only thing I feel like could have happened is a couple of the metering discs may have been installed the wrong way . But it would be for the same lifter.

Hipster said:

find a cam bearing journal issue making the new lifters useless

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Yeah... My oil glitter happened before cleaning the lifters but after my first ever valve adjustment that was not correct. Little concerned something may have happened then. But it could have been an issue from before everything and I didn't notice. Feel pretty strong it happened after the first adjustment though...

Hipster said:

Sometimes digging in is the better method. Once something starts making metal shavings they don't fix themselves.

Click to expand...

At the minumum, I'm not doing lifters until the cam is pulled. I'm not sure how much I'll be able to see from that as it relates to the cam bearings? But It seems the easiest next step.

Also Thinking of dropping the pan after at some point and looking at the main bearings if that's possible...
Pretty big projects for me so, it's not going to be tomorrow unfortunately...but the next oil change will most likely be the match that lights the fire..
Even then, , it's looking pretty much one direction from what I understand......

Just looking over the thread and see that, after my virgin valve adjustment when I screwed everything up, I had driven oot and came back. Goofed around with more adjustments. Driven more. Got some cut up rocker covers... Then made more adjustments. Was pretty knowledgeable about adjustments at this point. Was advised to change oil since I hadn't done it since my initial adjustments and intake gasket replacement in the beginning.
At this oil change, there was no note of strange swirls in the oil for whatever that's worth.

Then I did more adjustments, took good notes of turns, etc...thought I had things going good but kept getting taps at startup. Chasing my tail with preload settings...
For some reason, things ended up super noisy at one point. I decided to put things at tdc and noticed some rockers had major lash? Not sure that's supposed to ever happen?

Anyway, after this, I did a cold adjustment doing shurkey's method and got everything going pretty good...did more running adjustments.....still getting taps at startup....
Was advised to change oil to make sure anti-drainback wasn't an issue..... changed oil, and this is when I noticed the streaks....

Everything slamming around from all the loose adjustments?...idk....rislone and switch to synthetic and different weights?? things operating in different ranges...??
Just trying to find clues and note....
Keeping in mind there is always the possibility I just never paid much attention but, I've been looking at oil/fluids instinctively for as long as I can remember so feel pretty good it's a recent development that has occurred somewhere along this journey...coincidence?sure....
I mean my fuel pump starting to go bad surely isn't related and it's happening now so anything is possible....
Hate to change oil so soon again... not many miles on this most recent change yet.........

Road Trip said:

1) Discover source of metallic debris in oil and fix that. Can the engine then be decontaminated enough
that the new oil isn't also full of glitter...and more importantly, remains glitter free?

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Just mentioned in the recent mechanical oil pressure gauge thread that I changed my oil today.
I did run a can of BG EPR for 10 minutes before dumping the oil. And there had been a bottle of Rislone in since this last change.....
Looked different for sure since my last oil change.
If I shine a bright light into the oil I can still make out swirlies though. I mean, if I didn't have my 10x optivisors on and a bright light up close, I'd think I was out of the woods. Going to cut the filter tomorrow but I'm thinking it'll be uneventful. The stuff I'm after is micro sized... but the last oil change was terrifying looking...Maybe the EPR is skewing the look....possible....

Looked in the pan with my "failing" Amazon scope and it was super clean...
Now that I have this mechanical gauge , I can really keep an eye on things. I'm planning another clean and change after 1500 miles. Then another change 1500 miles after that....then I'll take the plunge and order the lab sample...

I've picked up the 15w40 Diesel oil and have drained the oil...Came out clear.... Will study it in a bit.
Wanted to ask. Is there any useful info that can be had by looking for something specific with my scope while the pan is empty again?
I know the pick up screen and bottom of the pan looked great last night....But looking at the crank, I don't really know if there's anything useful from the exposed areas...Figured I'd ask...
Hot idle in gear on my 30 mile errands to get the oil and a couple other things was just below 10 psi
Idle in park about 14 psi
seemed good around 30-40 just cruising around...
Hoping the STP 5w30 is just different than the Mobil 1 5w30 I had been using...You'd think fresh oil would be better than old though??

From March 7th when I first noticed the streaky oil

scott2093 said:

Someone please tell me rislone makes oil look funky and I don't need to drop my oil pan.. This is only a couple of days after fresh oil, filter and some rislone.....with barely any driving...Just test drive maybe 5 or 10 miles 2 or 3 times....

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Fast forward to Today.... I drove it maybe 30 or so miles ....3 stops around town.....since my oil change last night...

Guess the oil wasn't as clear as I thought it was coming out of the pan. looks a lot different....and the quick oil change has similar conditions as when it first appeared? few miles driven etc.... strange....
I even put it in the same container just to make sure the thinning out of it in a bigger container wouldn't change the look....

1st pic is from March.....

If you're that concerned, buy an oil sample kit, and send off a sample for lab analysis next time.