3/4 Ton of fun - ‘95 Sierra

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

chasw44

Newbie
Joined
Oct 22, 2023
Messages
20
Reaction score
24
Location
Central texas
That’s just the POR15 right? They do recommend a top coat. I gave it a spray of Rustoleum Rust Reformer which is UV protectant. Nice job!
I know this old but for those looking for info. Por says if you aregoing to topcoat their por then it needs to be before the por completely dries otherwise it is so hard the topcoat wont stick. Por will turn all kinds of funny shades if it is exposed to sunlight. When it dries it is like ppg epoxy primer, you cant beat it off with a hammer. It will mash but wont flake off. Por sells a baby blue primer for the second coat to hold a top coat but it gets pretty expensive to do this. I did this on a 79 10 jeep. I tried to save on the innerfender panels wheelwells and the undercoat just peeled off over the next coupla years.
 

Caman96

OEM Baby!
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2020
Messages
8,660
Reaction score
17,267
Location
The Hub
I did under bed with POR15 and as mentioned in earlier post, I sprayed over with Rustoleum Rust Reformer. That was a year ago, still looks exactly the same, no issues. Cab forward, I used Rustoleum Rust Reformer only.
Thinking about it, I do believe I sprayed the POR15 before it had completely dried.
 
Last edited:

chasw44

Newbie
Joined
Oct 22, 2023
Messages
20
Reaction score
24
Location
Central texas
By golly the cab mounts are torqued and done. The rear end was loosened and straightened out. The wheel gap is good enough for me now.
I have never seen a adjustable rear axle on any vehicle. The throgh bolt on the springs goes into a hole in the axle pad/perch centering the axle a holding it in place, there is no slop in the hole to allow movement.
 

fancyTBI

*Sad TBI 350 noises*
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Messages
3,361
Reaction score
9,654
Location
Northern IL
I have never seen an adjustable rear axle on any vehicle. The throgh bolt on the springs goes into a hole in the axle pad/perch centering the axle a holding it in place, there is no slop in the hole to allow movement.
The saddles from Tin Works were not adjustable, the hole in the saddle was big enough to accommodate the center bolt on the spring. It wasn’t a snug fit. The movement was very minor.
 

fancyTBI

*Sad TBI 350 noises*
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Messages
3,361
Reaction score
9,654
Location
Northern IL
Gauge cluster is good. The oil pressure gauge is super erratic still. See video. It goes wild in park. In gear at idle it is normal, albeit a little low compared to my old gauge (I think I bumped the needle some). While driving it will also hummingbird until I get to cruising speed. It will also get hung up at times where it just won’t move.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

I will need to inspect the connectors and make sure that the pins on the stepper motor(?) are cleaned and secured correctly.

I can’t remember if I used a new OPS or re-used the one from the truck. I’ll need to inspect those wires. It’s very annoying to drive around without reliable gauges.
 

fancyTBI

*Sad TBI 350 noises*
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Messages
3,361
Reaction score
9,654
Location
Northern IL
My fuel gauge does the same thing, in both clusters. kinda swings around the actual reading and does whatever it wants. Sometimes jumps and sticks back and forth.

My oil pressure gauge is notchy. Jumps 10-15 psi in either direction, also doing whatever it wants.
Frustrating for sure. I figure since two gauges have acted the same and it’s been getting worse it’s probably: the sending unit or the gauge connector. I’ll have to inspect the pins and clean them.
 

Orpedcrow

I don’t know what I’m doing
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2022
Messages
2,827
Reaction score
7,392
Location
East Texas
Frustrating for sure. I figure since two gauges have acted the same and it’s been getting worse it’s probably: the sending unit or the gauge connector. I’ll have to inspect the pins and clean them.
Hopefully that’s it. Wasn’t the case for me :bawl:

Eventually I’ll do the remote-control-car-shock-absorber-oil in a syringe thing.
 

fancyTBI

*Sad TBI 350 noises*
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Messages
3,361
Reaction score
9,654
Location
Northern IL
Cleaned the IP connections, replaced the oil pressure switch, and no improvement. I did film the gauge while I went out and wiggled the connector around and there was some jumping action on the gauge.

There’s a big blob of RTV in the sending unit. I wonder if this is getting in the way of a good connection. Perhaps it’s too big.
You must be registered for see images attach
 

fancyTBI

*Sad TBI 350 noises*
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Messages
3,361
Reaction score
9,654
Location
Northern IL
Ever have a squeak that won’t go away? I heard it after I did my lift shackles. Gotta be the bushings or the bolt head wearing on the hanger… right? Nope. The thin bolt head self clearanced on the hanger, bushings were good, no tears, no weird contact. WTF is it?

It’s the missing bed bolt that I didn’t put in because the threads were so messed up. Tap that, install bolt. Squeak still present.

Oh. It’s the hack of a removal job I did on the bed braces rubbing on the C notch… old inner fender liner to the rescue.
You must be registered for see images attach


My fault for doing a bad job. I should have stood the bed up and worked on it but it was just me doing the work last summer and I couldn’t have raised it myself once it was set in the barn. The next bed I get will be done the right way. Grind out the spot welds, repaint, and undercoat the whole thing.

This bed is too far gone for my liking. It will eventually be transplanted to my ‘92.
 
Top