89' 350 tbi timing drops back to 0

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lemccullough

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Hello, I am a newbie and this is my first post/question. I have a 89' chevy truck 350 tbi completly stock, engine replaced 150-200k ago. started having issue with the vehicle bogging down during take off and then clearing once i got up to 20-30 mph, tried spraying carb cleaner ect but nothing helped. After a couple of weeks it started out with the bogg down and stayed that way no matter what, its been about 3 months now. I have read hundreds of posts and have learned a lot from you guys but nothing that addresses this issue in particular. I have new plugs, wires, sensors, fuel pump, filter, rebuilt tbi and regulator, distributer, coil, knock sensor and timing chain, cam looked good. I have set the timing to 0 and cleared ecu by disconnecting battery, then reconnecting ecu wire bypass and then restarting only to watch my timing advance 12 to 14 degrees slowly drop back to 0 within about a minute, I have tried this with knock sensor disconnected as well, no difference. i am told a scanner for this year vehicle probably wont tell me much. The dealerships wont touch it because its to old and I beginning to feel I know as much as the basic mechanic. I cant hear any unusual noises. I did a fuel pressure test it seemed fine ( 12lbs) I have done a compression leakdown test a regular compression test and all that seems fine, changed out the ecu as well. when i first start it and before the timing drops back to 0 the engine runs real smooth and then once back to 0 you can hear a little pinging noise. If anyone can help me I would greatly appreciate the help
 

docstoy

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To start with welcome to the forum, I'm fairly new myself . As you have already seen there are several very knowledgeable and helpful people here. If you can look for the sticky on service manuals and download the driveability and emissions manual , look thru the symptoms and see if any apply . My one question for you is . When you reinstalled your harmonic balancer after replacing timing chain , was the timing mark at 0 degrees if not did you mark where 0 degrees was at the time ?
 

pressureangle

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There's a (iirc) brown and white wire with a single connector which should be accessible on the passenger footwell. This wire goes to the PCM, and is disconnected when setting base timing. If your connection is poor, or the wire broken, it would set timing to 0*. Remake the connection and verify the condition. My knowledge is '94 so if it isn't obvious perhaps the earlier ones are different. I'm sure someone with specific '89 knowledge will chime in soon.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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I'm sure someone with specific '89 knowledge will chime in soon.
Yeah, the (Blk/Tan) EST bypass wire connector is inside the cab, under the glove box for 94+ years. Earlier ones are in the wire loom behind the engine on passenger side. It appears OP has done that but, it goes back to zero after a while. Here's one from an 88
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I got rid of my stumble with a new distributer. You rebuilt the distributer, or just cap and rotor?
Good point! Maybe the ICM is wigging out after heating up? A well known problem. Here's a schematic of an ICM - notice that EST Bypass Wire just shuts off the ICM signal to the ECM so, it won't adjust timing until reconnected. That's what leads me to the ICM or bad wiring/connections. Unfortunately, you can test the ICM and prove it's bad but, can't prove it's good.
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I have new plugs, wires, sensors, fuel pump, filter, rebuilt tbi and regulator, distributer, coil, knock sensor and timing chain, cam looked good.
"New parts" don't necessarily mean "Good" parts with all the after market junk going around. :(
 

lemccullough

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Thanks for your input, I would have thought if the tan bypass wire was broken/compromised it would not advance the timing at all, but it does, just the timing wont stay advanced it just drops back to 0. Will do a continuity test on it. Also not getting 5v on knock sensor, pin B 12v, pin C 9+v, pin D ground, Pin E (Knock sensor) stumbles around 0.05v, knock sensor 100k ohms good, continuity on the knock sensor wire good
 

someotherguy

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I'd suspect a defective ignition module regardless of new or old, and possibly sketchy small harness right there at the module on the distributor. At this age those wires have been known to get brittle and damaged.

Did you wipe off the old heat sink compound, and apply some new, when installing the module? A small amount is all that is needed, but you definitely need it.

Richard
 

docstoy

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Sorry for my stupidity was thinking about engine sensors , mouth flew open before the brain kicked in.
 

docstoy

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Pinging noise your hearing may be ecm cking knock sensor circuit . Did you ever download driveability manual for your application it describes operation .
 
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