Engine advice—How screwed am I (pics)

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Twin_Flyer

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id like to know how bad was the job taking the heads off, especially the exhaust manifold bolts!
 

1989GMCSIERRA

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Go pick up a reman engine. you can get one for 2-3k. Pulling the engine isn't that hard. Get one from a reputable builder.
 

92 Longbed

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Just order up the replacement c rate engine from Summit. Comes with heads. Reuse your tin, intake, exhaust manifolds, etc. It's about $3k. Use some of the rest of your budget for a NEW radiator and replacement water pump. Doable over a weekend. Be sure to use a good break-in oil, follow proper break-in procedures and you should be good for 200k more miles.
 

Caman96

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I do agree an engine replacement is optimal, however spending $1k to have a truck that runs around town vs $5k+ for a new motor is a better scenario for me at the moment (just had our first kid, literally yesterday).
I’m sure he’d like a new motor but looks like that’s on hold.
Yes, CONGRATULATIONS :big_banana_Dance:
 
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jd33173

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Thank you so much for the reply! I'm overwhelmed with the support in this community, but I want to follow up with your response as this sounds like my situation.

After closer inspection, both head gaskets are blown out in the exact spots you indicated. After reading this, my goal is to continue with my cylinder head job (I am also replacing the radiator, water pump, and timing chain).

A few other things I wanted to respond to in the "Was it a smooth running truck?" line of questions:

1. Oil pressure: I think the gauge was broke when I bought the truck ~2 years ago; it just kinda fluctuates all crazy, off the charts, etc. I will fix that.

2. Oil burning: About 1 quart every 3,000 miles.

3. Overheating: About 5 months ago, my idler tension pulley burnt out on the freeway, kicked the serpentine belt off, and my truck overheated. I replaced all the parts, but I'm wondering if this was the start of my problem...

4. Smooth operation: The truck runs great overall, the ONLY thing I can think of is that at very low RPM (like coasting through a parking lot on cold start) sometimes the truck will 'lug' or 'lurch', almost like you're about to stall a manual transmission (the truck is auto). It's noticeable because it will jolt you a little bit.

I do agree an engine replacement is optimal, however spending $1k to have a truck that runs around town vs $5k+ for a new motor is a better scenario for me at the moment (just had our first kid, literally yesterday).

Thank you again for the advice. I will vacuum out all the gasket debris in the cylinders, examine the cylinder walls, clean the pistons (not sure with what yet), and proceed with my cylinder head project (valves, etc.)
Congrats on the munchkin and good luck on the engine, fingers crossed!
 

Twin_Flyer

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Most of the local shops I spoke with about the blown head gasket in my '98 Suburban wouldn't touch it. All said basically the same thing. Rebuilding the heads will likely put more load on the bottom end and any small issues now (1 quart/3000 miles) will get worse and didn't want any warranty headaches. In fact, they wouldn't do an engine swap unless I bought a crate engine. Again, not worth their time they said. In the end i found a rebuilt '96 engine with 500 or so miles on the rebuild, which was done about ten years ago. Its been sitting in a friends shop. He pulled it from a truck that was owned by my employer when it was rebuilt (I know the builder as well). ran great till the frame rusted so bad it broke in half (plow salt spreader truck with a dump bed, only used on the grounds). Finally found a shop willing to swap that one, once I go over it and am satisfied its worth the trouble...
 

Erik the Awful

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Rebuilding the heads will likely put more load on the bottom end and any small issues now (1 quart/3000 miles) will get worse and didn't want any warranty headaches. In fact, they wouldn't do an engine swap unless I bought a crate engine. Again, not worth their time they said.
Rebuilding the heads will not put any more load on the bottom end than it was designed to handle. Sure, if the bottom end is weak, this might break it, but bottom end failure is not tied that strongly to head gasket failure. They're making excuses.

If they make you aware of that the bottom end is not warrantied, there's no headache. If your bottom end fails soon after, you'll know your engine was wore out. Take your lumps and move on.

Not worth their time? They can f* off. An engine swap is a nuts and bolts problem; long, but easy. In my opinion a head gasket replacement requires more skill from a tech. He has to have his eye on everything to ensure there aren't any other underlying problems. It pays less, but can be accomplished quicker. They're just pressing the easy button and hoping you go with it.

Congratulations on the new kiddo!
 

movietvet

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Rebuilding the heads will not put any more load on the bottom end than it was designed to handle. Sure, if the bottom end is weak, this might break it, but bottom end failure is not tied that strongly to head gasket failure. They're making excuses.

If they make you aware of that the bottom end is not warrantied, there's no headache. If your bottom end fails soon after, you'll know your engine was wore out. Take your lumps and move on.

Not worth their time? They can f* off. An engine swap is a nuts and bolts problem; long, but easy. In my opinion a head gasket replacement requires more skill from a tech. He has to have his eye on everything to ensure there aren't any other underlying problems. It pays less, but can be accomplished quicker. They're just pressing the easy button and hoping you go with it.

Congratulations on the new kiddo!
"Sure, if the bottom end is weak, this might break it".

You just backed up why the shops don't want to do the job. Shops/techs get blamed for things like this and that is why they pass on the job. If a customer would sign a disclaimer about the bottom end having problems after head work is done, then that is a maybe.

The upper and lower engine parts work together. If you have failed heads/gaskets after enough mileage and at the same there is a weak link in the chain in the bottom end that has not shown yet, repairing the upper end can add more pressure to the workings of the bottom end and cause that weak link to show. Then the customer wants the shop to cover it.

The OP said that numerous shops backed off. I would have been one of those shops, too. They were not "making excuses". They were making a smart business decision.

"If the bottom end fails soon after, you'll know your engine was wore out. Take your lumps and move on". That thinking is all about wasting money. Sure, a customer can make the decision to chance it, like you suggest, but then they have no one to blame but themselves for the money spent and TOO many times nowadays, people want to blame someone else for their bad decisions. Too much of that very same decision problem happens every day in this messed up country/economy.......
 
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