Sway bar link angle and popping noises..etc

[scott2093]

 

[GoToGuy]

So I'm pretty sure there are readers out jumping up and down , banging their heads against the wall shouting " RTFM!".
This page , you posted, although probably 75% of the readers have these manuals.
The page 3C-24, the paragraph at the lower left # 9, install bolt #116, knuckle to hub. 133 foot pounds. The manual is written to focus on the part your working on. The knuckle, not the front axle. 116 are the three bolts.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Frank Enstein]

In a perfect world the sway bar attachments would be parallel to the ground @ ride height.
In the real world try to get it close.
Most people overtighten the end links.
The end link bolt/nut should be tightened just enough to make the bushing bulge enough to match the washer diameter. That is why the Energy Suspension Brand comes with nylock nuts.

 

[Frank Enstein]

Vertical play could be caused by the LCA bushings, ball joints, or the bearings. A very small amount of play can easily cause very spooky driving.

 

[scott2093]

The page 3C-24, the paragraph at the lower left # 9, install bolt #116, knuckle to hub. 133 foot pounds.

Thank you. That's what I was thinking and mentioned I went with the 133lbs....Just the drawing is a bit confusing with the orientation of bolt #116 imo.... looks like it has it installed from the back side so I wanted to make sure....

Where does the 178 ft lb in the torque specs thread I linked come from?

Wheel hub/ bearing assembly (3 bolts 4WD) 178 ft.lbs

Vertical play could be caused by the LCA bushings, ball joints, or the bearings. A very small amount of play can easily cause very spooky driving.

Thanks. I need to get it looked at again.
I've done the cv axles but still getting a shake at 60mph and climbing...
Took truck to get tires rotated and balanced. Asked them if there was a lot of balancing that needed to be done and they said just a few oz..... I swear there's 5lbs of new weights..lol..need to look... but still shaking....

Got excited and mad for a bit when I realized one of my tie rod sleeve bolts was loose, the others were maybe 5lbs torque and the sleeve clamps were in wrong position. 1 Was even hanging off the sleeve... Never taking it for an alignment at that place ever again....

But still have a shake...

1 thing I noticed tonight was when at a light idling, I turn the steering and the pump makes a shake I can feel in steering wheel. Power steering pulley getting pretty wobbly. That shouldn't affect driving.
I want to say the hwy driving shake feels like the motor because it's not really moving the steering wheel for as noticeable the shake is imo. I can't believe I can't tell. Pretty sure the shake continues when I put the truck in neutral when it starts shaking. but it slows down too soon for me to get a good feel. No way I'm going to 80mph to give me more roll time... I'm that afraid of the shake it's so bad..

But I am getting some click or pop every now and then in the front I need to look more into.
I have some nos napa wheel bearings that seem nice. Have timkin bearings like the AC Delco GM ones....May shotgun those on tomorrow just to make sure I don't have a problem there I'm just not catching....

LCA bushings look very bad unfortunately....

 

[scott2093]

LBJ?
Not sure why it wouldn't act up earlier....
TRW less than 2 years old..

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[454cid]

LBJ?
Not sure why it wouldn't act up earlier....
TRW less than 2 years old..

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

It's kind of hard to tell, but that looks like maybe the whole ball joint is moving in the arm, not the ball in the joint.

 

[scott2093]

It's kind of hard to tell, but that looks like maybe the whole ball joint is moving in the arm, not the ball in the joint.

I saw that too. I posted the video more as a question to ask if it looked like a ball joint failure. Obviously it would be easier to just replace the wheel bearing but I don't know what I'm looking for. I mean, this is 12 and 6 play I was doing from the outside of the tire which is the classic what everyone says to look for when diagnosing bad wheel bearings.
I'll get a pry bar underneath tire and see what it looks like.
I'm confused if I'm supposed to jack up on the lower ca for a valid test..
Regardless, something is not right. This hopefully has been what I've been looking for.


edit/// here's a video of me with a pry bar under the tire...then grabbing 3&6/12&9... the lateral movement seems to be the thing.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[Orpedcrow]

Yea ball joint is loose in the arm.
I would take it apart, if the holes in the ball joint flange are oblong, replace it. Replace those mounting bolts and nuts regardless.
Grade 8/10.9 and some form of lock nut. I prefer the stover nuts. Glad you found the source. Keep us updated.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Keeper]

1 thing I noticed tonight was when at a light idling, I turn the steering and the pump makes a shake I can feel in steering wheel.

I'd check that the steering gear box attachment bolts to the frame are tight.