Well crap, I'm confused again. Ready to put the heads on tomorrow. Got the bolts cleaned up and the block chased. But now I'm going with y'alls knowledge and experience. So new bolts, torque to the first step, and then the degree value as in the MERCRUISER PUB?
Same as the GM service manual. There are 3 different degree angles for the 3 lengths of bolts too. Pay attention there. The short bolts get turned the least. The middle length bolts next to the oil drain back holes on the ends in the center row get an intermediate value. The longer bolts get the highest value. Do not have the specs sitting in front of me at the moment. Chances are you will have some that feel spongy even doing the service manual method. Resist the temptation to turn it more unless you want to hear a snap and righty tighty to become righty loosely.
If you go ARP, 65 ft/lbs MAX on bolts or studs in a factory block after sanding the bottom of the washers facing the head with 80 grit sand paper. Lube on the shank and under the bolt head only, none on the head face side of the washer. Sound advice from the late Joe Sherman of Sherman Race engines.
Learned my head bolt lesson the hard way a couple of years ago. Involved an in-chassis head removal on both banks in my 97 Express on an engine that had 1,000 miles on it at the time. Avoid JEGS brand "Made in the USA" head bolts too even if they look tempting compared to ARP in price. They lost a customer in the whole ordeal that had spent $1000s with them over the prior 2 decades. 4 broken/cracked bolts and 5 cracked in half washers. 2 ruined head gaskets, 2 intake gaskets, 2 header gaskets and probably 10 hours of labor to do it again while I had Covid. It was fun.
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