JustinJ94FSB
Newbie
Installing a Redarc Tow-Pro Liberty brake controller in my 1994 K1500 Blazer. Planning to tow a 2024 Coleman Rubicon 1400BH which has a GWVR of 3,000lbs and is 1,900lbs dry. The trailer has a single axle. This truck has the factory installed Red/Blue wire running from the engine compartment to the hitch. (does anyone know what gauge wire this is btw?)
I have the 7-pin trailer connector mounted and wired. I have tested it and it does everything correctly. Now I am working on the under-hood wiring. The Red factory wire already has a ring terminal and a fuse installed on the engine-compartment end. It easily reached the factory power junction area on the passenger side of the firewall. I plan to remove the inline fuse and replace it with a 30a resetting breaker.
I am getting hung up on the Blue wire, and the Power feed that connects the brake controller unit to the vehicle battery. The brake controller pigtail has 14awg wires for the brake switch/light signal, and for ground. It has 2 12awg wires, one needs to be run to the battery, and one needs to connect to the factory blue wire that runs along the frame and back to the 7 pin. The concern i have right now is about different gauge wires. The factory wires are very stout. They cant be any smaller than 10awg, maybe 8awg. Unless they are just a different type of wire from 30 years ago that are much stiffer than modern wires and its throwing me off, but they are also very thick. Is there any cause for concern connecting the 12awg wire coming out of my brake controller pigtail to the, likely, 8-10awg wire that runs to the 7 pin at the hitch? And also for the power wire from the brake controller to the battery. The concern I have here is I have been recommended to install a 30a resettable breaker on this line as well, but according to google, a 12awg wire at 12v can only carry 20 amps. So what good is a 30a breaker? Trying to keep from rambling, hope i was descriptive enough. Any help is appreciated
I have the 7-pin trailer connector mounted and wired. I have tested it and it does everything correctly. Now I am working on the under-hood wiring. The Red factory wire already has a ring terminal and a fuse installed on the engine-compartment end. It easily reached the factory power junction area on the passenger side of the firewall. I plan to remove the inline fuse and replace it with a 30a resetting breaker.
I am getting hung up on the Blue wire, and the Power feed that connects the brake controller unit to the vehicle battery. The brake controller pigtail has 14awg wires for the brake switch/light signal, and for ground. It has 2 12awg wires, one needs to be run to the battery, and one needs to connect to the factory blue wire that runs along the frame and back to the 7 pin. The concern i have right now is about different gauge wires. The factory wires are very stout. They cant be any smaller than 10awg, maybe 8awg. Unless they are just a different type of wire from 30 years ago that are much stiffer than modern wires and its throwing me off, but they are also very thick. Is there any cause for concern connecting the 12awg wire coming out of my brake controller pigtail to the, likely, 8-10awg wire that runs to the 7 pin at the hitch? And also for the power wire from the brake controller to the battery. The concern I have here is I have been recommended to install a 30a resettable breaker on this line as well, but according to google, a 12awg wire at 12v can only carry 20 amps. So what good is a 30a breaker? Trying to keep from rambling, hope i was descriptive enough. Any help is appreciated
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