Tach Signal wire ????

[Jglew82]

D


Okie Dokie, seems everyone has come to the same conclusion, even the maker of the gauge so Im going to go for it. If it blows up the tach then its only money right.
Ill report back

You'll be fine. Connecting to the PINK (positive) wire would be a problem. You're headed in the right direction. Keep us updated.

 

[Schurkey]

Those coils have four "blade" terminals but they're paired--there's two for power input and two that access the side that the module grounds to energize the coil. When the module breaks the ground, the coil sparks.

There should be two power side (pink) wires, and two ground-side (white) wires. One pink and one white wire in each connector. The molded-plastic connectors nest together so they look like a single connector with four wires. Wire colors change/fade over time. I think you have a replacement light-grey connector, because it looks to me like there's an original red wire connected to a light-colored wire (on the left side of the distributor when looking at the photo) that's part of that light-grey molded-plastic connector. Another photo or three of the original wires in those two connectors would be nice. I'd hate to think that the coil is just plain wired wrong, and I can't remember what it's supposed to look like. Gonna have to lift the hood of my pickup to verify.

Connect the tach to EITHER white wire. Doesn't matter which of the two. I think you're already connected to the white wire via that crappy Scotchlock. Maybe it's corroded already.

"I" would move the green tach wire to the length of white wire that's not being used--marked with masking tape. Shitcan that Scotchlock, and VERIFY THAT THE WIRE IT WAS ON IS STILL IN GOOD CONDITION--still nicely copper colored, not black or green like this one that I ripped out of the starter-motor circuit of my pickup. Even what appears to be the "good" end is too corroded for re-use.
If the wire that had the scotchlock is still in good condition, SEAL THE DAMAGED INSULATION.

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In my shop, wire splices get crimped then soldered, then covered with heat-shrink tubing (the kind that has the hot-melt adhesive inside to absolutely prevent moisture entry.)

 

[bobby v]

Well well well, guess what guys, yep even a fool can do good with the proper instructions.
I connectd the white (although thru age is not white anymore) to the green wire from the tach and guess what, WE HAVE LIFT OFF, IT WORKS, YIPPEE!!!!!!!!!
So to all you guys that put up with my seemingly dumb questions I thank you from the bottom of my gas tank!!!!
I cant tell yet if the original problem of the tach bouncing around at 2500rpms is fixed but I believe it is, unitl I get out on the HWY.
But at least now I know its done proper, and Im color blind so that don't help!!!
I found that todays forums are a virtual fountain of info when you don't know about something. Back in the day it was hit and miss, talk with this guy then that guy yayadayada.
Same is true with the Corvette Forums, guys helping guys, ITS GREAT so thanks again
Bobby V
PS who says an ole dog cant learn new tricks eh, hell Im 77 years young and Im learning all the time lol And yes Schurkey I got rid of that crap connection Scothlock

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I connectd the white (although thru age is not white anymore) to the green wire from the tach and guess what, WE HAVE LIFT OFF, IT WORKS,

Yay! You didn't even release any of that magical smoke either. A great day all around!