Steps On Paint Correction

[OBSthebest]

Hey,

I am looking to do some paint correction on my 1999 Chevy Tahoe. There is slight oxidation, but no clear coat peeling. In certain lighting you can catch all the swirl marks in the clear coat that drive me crazy. Would anyone have any recommendations on paint correction? Would love to get a lead on what orbital tool and the steps of paint correcting. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

 

[johnckhall]

Hey,

I am looking to do some paint correction on my 1999 Chevy Tahoe. There is slight oxidation, but no clear coat peeling. In certain lighting you can catch all the swirl marks in the clear coat that drive me crazy. Would anyone have any recommendations on paint correction? Would love to get a lead on what orbital tool and the steps of paint correcting. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

It certainly takes practice that's for sure. I bought a variable speed orbital buffer off Amazon. I'd start with a really good wash and clay bar to remove contaminants from the surface. For the oxidation, you'd start with a higher grit buffing compound and a medium firm pad (orange usually). Then start working your way down in grit. Changing or washing the pad every time. Eventually you'd switch to a softer pad (red) with the finest compound. I like Meguiar's Ultimate Polish, a semi-liquid glazing compound. Finally, coat with a ceramic or graphene spray.

Be very careful to begin with. I started with too high rpm on the buffer my first time and burned through the clear coat on an edge. Start low-medium rpm and let the buffer do the work. If you have a beater auto it might help to practice on that paint first. I'm no expert by any means and I get nervous every time I pull out that buffer still. Once you get the paint corrected, it's just maintenance from then on. However, never ever, ever go through a car wash again! Hand wash from then on and change your washcloth (and maybe even wash water) often, especially if you drop it.

 

[Scooterwrench]

It certainly takes practice that's for sure. I bought a variable speed orbital buffer off Amazon. I'd start with a really good wash and clay bar to remove contaminants from the surface. For the oxidation, you'd start with a higher grit buffing compound and a medium firm pad (orange usually). Then start working your way down in grit. Changing or washing the pad every time. Eventually you'd switch to a softer pad (red) with the finest compound. I like Meguiar's Ultimate Polish, a semi-liquid glazing compound. Finally, coat with a ceramic or graphene spray.

Be very careful to begin with. I started with too high rpm on the buffer my first time and burned through the clear coat on an edge. Start low-medium rpm and let the buffer do the work. If you have a beater auto it might help to practice on that paint first. I'm no expert by any means and I get nervous every time I pull out that buffer still. Once you get the paint corrected, it's just maintenance from then on. However, never ever, ever go through a car wash again! Hand wash from then on and change your washcloth (and maybe even wash water) often, especially if you drop it.

Yeah,more like he said. To add when hand washing after you get it all buffed out first always use a jet sprayer on your water hose to blast off any sand then use a piece of foam rubber as a washing pad. It does a great job of lifting grime without scratching your polished surface

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

www.maaco.com/services/auto-painting/

Auto Body Painting | Services | Maaco

With our easy and affordable auto paint packages, there's no better time to get your car looking like new again. Get your free estimate today!

www.maaco.com

 

[OBSthebest]

Y'all are the best! Thank you for the great responses!!!

 

[Hipster]

Hey,

I am looking to do some paint correction on my 1999 Chevy Tahoe. There is slight oxidation, but no clear coat peeling. In certain lighting you can catch all the swirl marks in the clear coat that drive me crazy. Would anyone have any recommendations on paint correction? Would love to get a lead on what orbital tool and the steps of paint correcting. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

You want to use the finest grit that gets the job done. I like Meguires or 3M products with waffle pads on a rotary. Polish with Swirl remover 2.0 and glaze it.

Some guys like clay bars. I never been a big fan. Rather drop back to 3000/5000g wet paper and a sanding pad if it's that's bad. Drop clay on the ground and it goes in the trash and not back on the vehicle. Same with wash mits, polishing clothes. Never pick something up off the ground and rub on paint with it. A couple pieces of grit can makes things much worse.

Newbies can take some 3/4 blue tape and tape off body lines, panel edges, etc. to keep the pad off those areas.

After you go through the effort of getting it looking nicer, how you wash it becomes more important. The brush on the end of a stick at the diy car wash can be a disaster, drive thru wash, etc.

 

[OBSthebest]

You want to use the finest grit that gets the job done. I like Meguires or 3M products with waffle pads on a rotary. Polish with Swirl remover 2.0 and glaze it.

Some guys like clay bars. I never been a big fan. Rather drop back to 3000/5000g wet paper and a sanding pad if it's that's bad. Drop clay on the ground and it goes in the trash and not back on the vehicle. Same with wash mits, polishing clothes. Never pick something up off the ground and rub on paint with it. A couple pieces of grit can makes things much worse.

Newbies can take some 3/4 blue tape and tape off body lines, panel edges, etc. to keep the pad off those areas.

After you go through the effort of getting it looking nicer, how you wash it becomes more important. The brush on the end of a stick at the diy car wash can be a disaster, drive thru wash, etc.

Yessir, I stay away from any sort of public car wash. Every wash is done by hand, but now that I'm hearing all this feedback it may be time to change my sponges and wash mitts. I will deficiently be investing those, an orbital buffer, and the materials suggested above. I find the clay bar to be silly myself. I tried it once years ago and never felt it made a change. Maybe the vehicle clear coat just wasn't contaminated enough for it, as I try to keep my vehicles very clean. Thank you for your feedback!

 

[Hipster]

Yessir, I stay away from any sort of public car wash. Every wash is done by hand, but now that I'm hearing all this feedback it may be time to change my sponges and wash mitts. I will deficiently be investing those, an orbital buffer, and the materials suggested above. I find the clay bar to be silly myself. I tried it once years ago and never felt it made a change. Maybe the vehicle clear coat just wasn't contaminated enough for it, as I try to keep my vehicles very clean. Thank you for your feedback!

Clay bars don't get used in bodyshops much. It's a bunch of rubbing without much of a happy ending. LOL Takes entirely too long. You can get the same results with a little more course compound/polish. It's multistep so I typically stay within a system where one product and pad follows the previous stage.

 

[scott2093]

Just make sure to go check out your work during all times of the day and with as many lighting angles as you can. Parking under the lights at a supermarket at night will be revealing of any holograms too.....

Welcome to the dark side....
Where car washing used to be fun...lol

black is the best when it's popping though....

 

[95burban]

Where car washing used to be fun...lol

Pretty much sums it up, a good hand wash is a royal kick in the butt.