Alaskaburb
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- Sep 7, 2014
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A while back I posted the following thread as I tried to troubleshoot on an island in Alaska. I used the community scan tool and finally opted to delete my ABS system. Original thread is linked below.
www.gmt400.com
Update
My ABS module and related components are now located in the landfill and my suburban stops smooth and the rears will lock after the fronts when I step on the pedal hard. I do not have an ABS light obviously and the “Brake” light works only when the parking brake is applied. Here is what I did from memory. ** if you have working ABS or resources to repair yours I would not remove it** 1993 K2500 8600 GVW JD7
1.) Unplug electrical connectors on the ABS module.
2.) Disconnect and remove all lines connected to the ABS module with exception to the two fronts and one rear line going to their respective brakes. These three remained connected to their respective locations.
3.) Remove 4 bolts holding ABS module in place and smile when depositing unit in garbage can.
4.) Remove factory combination valve and replace it with the following unit. ** may not be necessary** I was able to just loosen the lines at the master cylinder and then disconnect from the combination valve. Do not remove the lines from the master cylinder rather rotate them up above the fluid level and then retighten to contain the fluid. You do not want to bench bleed the master if you can help it so don't let all the fluid drain out.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLP-PVKS-B1
5.) Remove switch from original combination valve and clean with brake cleaner. Apply super glue to grounding pin where it enters the plastic housing. Allow to dry upside down with pin facing up.
6.) Position the original brake lines where they need to be for the new combination valve by bending them carefully and cutting to length. Once roughly in place remove the line from the vehicle for flaring. I did not have to do any crazy bending of the lines and the original retainer clips worked fine. Carefully find the right fitting for the line size that matches your new combination valve as the originals on the truck were the wrong size. Make sure to slide the new fitting over the line with the correct orientation and flare the line. I was not about to fiddle around with the old clam shell flaring tools so I went all in with the following tool and it worked great!
https://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html
7.) Connect lines one at a time and tighten firmly with the correct flare nut wrench.
8.) Fabricate and flare lines from the master cylinder to the combination valve. Install in the correct orientation. The rear of my master cylinder went to the front port of my combination valve. **verify yours**
9.) Remove the warning light switch from your new combination valve and **TEMPORARILY** replace it with your old cleaned and super glued switch. I did not have access to one of the little plastic or aluminum combination valve bleeding tools at the time. There is debate here on the forum if it is needed or not but I was remote and did not want any problems. Here is the tool I replicated. **I think**
www.summitracing.com
10.) Thoroughly bleed and flush the system in the proper sequence. RR, LR, RF and LF. I used the Motive products pressure bleeder with the correct adapter.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mvp-0250
11.) Clean all brake fluid from connections with brake clean and allow it to dry. inspect for leaks at every new connection.
12.) Gradually increase pressure at the brake pedal and inspect for leaks and tighten and clean as needed.
13.) If you have done everything correctly and there were no existing problems with other components you are ready for a road test. I stepped on my pedal hard to make sure everything held before I ever took it out of park. While I had nothing to run into should the system fail, I had blocks prepositioned just a few feed ahead as a backup. My burb is out in the sticks on gravel so I had plenty space and no traffic to deal with. The gravel also made it easy for me to gradually increase my stopping effort to see when wheels locked up.
14. inspect for leaks after the road test and over the next few days
** my suburban lives out at our cabin in Alaska so I rarely do any high speed driving or winter driving. if this were not the case I may have put more effort into getting the system repaired.
I am sure I left something out so please let me know and I can edit this over time. I hope this helps!
Another ABS question
Good morning and thanks for reading. I have done quite a bit of searching before asking here. 1993 K2500 Suburban, 5.7 with hydroboost, 4x4 Backing down the boat ramp a few months ago and my ABS light came on. I no longer have the 10mph whirring sound that I assume came from the ABS unit...
www.gmt400.com
Update
My ABS module and related components are now located in the landfill and my suburban stops smooth and the rears will lock after the fronts when I step on the pedal hard. I do not have an ABS light obviously and the “Brake” light works only when the parking brake is applied. Here is what I did from memory. ** if you have working ABS or resources to repair yours I would not remove it** 1993 K2500 8600 GVW JD7
1.) Unplug electrical connectors on the ABS module.
2.) Disconnect and remove all lines connected to the ABS module with exception to the two fronts and one rear line going to their respective brakes. These three remained connected to their respective locations.
3.) Remove 4 bolts holding ABS module in place and smile when depositing unit in garbage can.
4.) Remove factory combination valve and replace it with the following unit. ** may not be necessary** I was able to just loosen the lines at the master cylinder and then disconnect from the combination valve. Do not remove the lines from the master cylinder rather rotate them up above the fluid level and then retighten to contain the fluid. You do not want to bench bleed the master if you can help it so don't let all the fluid drain out.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLP-PVKS-B1
5.) Remove switch from original combination valve and clean with brake cleaner. Apply super glue to grounding pin where it enters the plastic housing. Allow to dry upside down with pin facing up.
6.) Position the original brake lines where they need to be for the new combination valve by bending them carefully and cutting to length. Once roughly in place remove the line from the vehicle for flaring. I did not have to do any crazy bending of the lines and the original retainer clips worked fine. Carefully find the right fitting for the line size that matches your new combination valve as the originals on the truck were the wrong size. Make sure to slide the new fitting over the line with the correct orientation and flare the line. I was not about to fiddle around with the old clam shell flaring tools so I went all in with the following tool and it worked great!
https://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html
7.) Connect lines one at a time and tighten firmly with the correct flare nut wrench.
8.) Fabricate and flare lines from the master cylinder to the combination valve. Install in the correct orientation. The rear of my master cylinder went to the front port of my combination valve. **verify yours**
9.) Remove the warning light switch from your new combination valve and **TEMPORARILY** replace it with your old cleaned and super glued switch. I did not have access to one of the little plastic or aluminum combination valve bleeding tools at the time. There is debate here on the forum if it is needed or not but I was remote and did not want any problems. Here is the tool I replicated. **I think**
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Classic Performance PV-TOOL Classic Performance Combination Brake Proportioning Valve Tools | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Classic Performance Combination Brake Proportioning Valve Tools with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Brake Proportioning Valve Tools at Summit Racing.www.summitracing.com
10.) Thoroughly bleed and flush the system in the proper sequence. RR, LR, RF and LF. I used the Motive products pressure bleeder with the correct adapter.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mvp-0250
11.) Clean all brake fluid from connections with brake clean and allow it to dry. inspect for leaks at every new connection.
12.) Gradually increase pressure at the brake pedal and inspect for leaks and tighten and clean as needed.
13.) If you have done everything correctly and there were no existing problems with other components you are ready for a road test. I stepped on my pedal hard to make sure everything held before I ever took it out of park. While I had nothing to run into should the system fail, I had blocks prepositioned just a few feed ahead as a backup. My burb is out in the sticks on gravel so I had plenty space and no traffic to deal with. The gravel also made it easy for me to gradually increase my stopping effort to see when wheels locked up.
14. inspect for leaks after the road test and over the next few days
** my suburban lives out at our cabin in Alaska so I rarely do any high speed driving or winter driving. if this were not the case I may have put more effort into getting the system repaired.
I am sure I left something out so please let me know and I can edit this over time. I hope this helps!
