Good idea to ( in-line fuse ) big 3 upgrade

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A97obs

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This ran across my mind and was interested in Knowing if anyone has chosen to ( in-line fuse ) there big 3 upgrade specifically on the new line from the + Batt to the alternator . I always leave the factory ran but add the 1/0 direct I’ve never fused that extra run before on other cars trucks but with the eyelet and heat shrink , I still always worry about risk of that grounding on the alt seeing as they are pretty close together rather safe then sorry I feel like rule of thumb if there’s over 50% risk of directly grounding out a + Better fuse it

I assume It can’t hurt.. So On a stock 105amp alternator with 3-4ft of 1/0 gauge what in-line fuse rating would you run ? Maybe 125-150 amp fuse that way you don’t pop fuses just from car audio amp draw itself
 
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Cadillacmak

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I assume It can’t hurt.. So On a stock 105amp alternator with 3-4ft of 1/0 gauge what in-line fuse rating would you run ? Maybe 125-150 amp fuse that way you don’t pop fuses just from car audio amp draw itself
I like fuses my self! Easy to replace and protects so much better! I would run a 100amp fuse depending on the trip curve of the fuse. Most fuses don't pop instantly at their rating, for example they would take a 200amp hit for a tenth of a second or a 125amp hit for a quarter of a second, something like that. So a 100amp fuse would protect your alt if for some reason you had a sustained draw of 125amps. If it looks from the trip curve that 105 will pop it try to get a 110 or as close to 105 as you can get.
 

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Cadillacmak

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See attached for trip curves on standard ATC fuse. If you tell me the style/brand of fuse you are planing to use I am sure I can dig up the trip curve on those also.
 

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PlayingWithTBI

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Here's what I did on my 88. It's a little different since the Alternator goes to the power block on the firewall (and has a fusible link). I ran #4 wire to that block with a 150 AMP fuse.
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The battery terminals have #2, #4, and 2 - #8 holes so, I ran two 8s to the connector then #4 the rest of the way.
 

A97obs

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Here's what I did on my 88. It's a little different since the Alternator goes to the power block on the firewall (and has a fusible link). I ran #4 wire to that block with a 150 AMP fuse.
You must be registered for see images attach


The battery terminals have #2, #4, and 2 - #8 holes so, I ran two 8s to the connector then #4 the rest of the way.
I have the power block on the firewall to . I haven’t navigated it much with what goes where but I also see my alt power lead comes from the firewall.
I suspect most people run the alternators big 3 from the + batt terminal to the alt direct as a pose to running a new lead to the distribution block along same path as the oem.

So I suppose since I’m leaving the stock + alternator power as a stand alone factory run I can upgrade from the battery to the firewall didn’t think of that part . Then fuse the wire I ran from the battery directly to the alternator + lead
My car audio amp setup will change soon so I just didn’t want the car audio draw to be to much and pop the fuse if it’s more then what the amps draw can handle but less then what a short would take to pop the fuse
 

PlayingWithTBI

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My car audio amp setup will change soon so I just didn’t want the car audio draw to be to much and pop the fuse if it’s more then what the amps draw can handle but less then what a short would take to pop the fuse
if you look at my picture, the battery wires go over a couple black boxes. I have another #4 wire feeding them and have 6 fuse holders inside. I'm feeding my sub from there so, the drain is direct to the battery.

If you're interested, here's what I did... Edit: Ooops, that link goes to post #2. Scroll up to #1 for the whole shebang.
www.gmt400.com/threads/electrical-upgrade-just-do-it.51911/#post-1145993

 

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