Cv axle?

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MrobsMan

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I’m going to be replacing my worn out cv axles but I’m not sure what type to go with. My trucks suspension is stock all I have done was crank my keys to level the truck.. they aren’t maxed out I’ve only got em about 1/2-3/4 of the way up.. here’s a pic of my cv angle. Should I use a stock replacement cv axle or do I need one that’s longer since my keys are cranked? Thanks.
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Nad_Yvalhosert

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You have stock control arms?
They are located in the stock location?
You have the stock keys, merely cranked a bit?

You should use stock CV shafts.


Question: what about them are "worn out"?
Noise when turning? Torn boots? Dry joints?
You pic shows one to be in great condition: dry, clean, barely rusted... please elaborate.

I have a "barely cranked" '00 Yukon Denali plow truck. OE shafts with 223,000 miles.
I have a 6" lifted '88 GMC 1500 mud truck with 33" tractor tires. Both shafts were only replaced with OE replacement due to split rubber boots.
 

Schurkey

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Return the truck to standard ride-height, forget installing different CV shafts. I don't see anything wrong with the one in the photo. USUALLY, if the boots aren't torn, the joints are OK. There are exceptions.




P.S. Did you re-aim the headlights after raising the suspension, or are you throwing glare at the traffic in front of you?
 

MrobsMan

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Return the truck to standard ride-height, forget installing different CV shafts. I don't see anything wrong with the one in the photo. USUALLY, if the boots aren't torn, the joints are OK. There are exceptions.




P.S. Did you re-aim the headlights after raising the suspension, or are you throwing glare at the traffic in front of you?
You have stock control arms?
They are located in the stock location?
You have the stock keys, merely cranked a bit?

You should use stock CV shafts.


Question: what about them are "worn out"?
Noise when turning? Torn boots? Dry joints?
You pic shows one to be in great condition: dry, clean, barely rusted... please elaborate.

I have a "barely cranked" '00 Yukon Denali plow truck. OE shafts with 223,000 miles.
I have a 6" lifted '88 GMC 1500 mud truck with 33" tractor tires. Both shafts were only replaced with OE replacement due to split rubber boots.
So the issue I’m having is a very loud popping sound when accelerating from a stop and gets worse if I turn while accelerating (noise seems to be from the driver side). At first I was certain it was the cv axle so I changed it since they’re original with 190k. Didn’t fix it. So I’m gonna test the 4wd actuator to see if it’s halfway engaged. If that’s not the issue I’m gonna remove the driver side shaft (keeping the old cv bolted to the wheel bearing hub) and drive it to see if the noise goes away.. obviously that means the diff has a bad bearing or something internally wrong with it…
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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So the issue I’m having is a very loud popping sound when accelerating from a stop and gets worse if I turn while accelerating (noise seems to be from the driver side). At first I was certain it was the cv axle so I changed it since they’re original with 190k. Didn’t fix it. So I’m gonna test the 4wd actuator to see if it’s halfway engaged. If that’s not the issue I’m gonna remove the driver side shaft (keeping the old cv bolted to the wheel bearing hub) and drive it to see if the noise goes away.. obviously that means the diff has a bad bearing or something internally wrong with it…

If you're hearing a noise when accellerating in 2wd, it's not likely the 4x4 components.
But just for peace of mind, perform the same launch in both 2wd and 4x4.

From your description, I'd suggest you look at the wheel bearings.
 

MrobsMan

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If you're hearing a noise when accellerating in 2wd, it's not likely the 4x4 components.
But just for peace of mind, perform the same launch in both 2wd and 4x4.

From your description, I'd suggest you look at the wheel bearings.
It’s my front diff. I checked the fluid and it is metallic grey with metal in it lmao the driver side flange makes a weird chain like sound when I spin it like it’s grinding
 
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