Cold Start Stumble

[Whino83]

I’ve read through lots of post on here but I’m stumped.
I picked up a 1992 k1500 305 5 speed truck for fairly cheap knowing it needed a clutch and some fixing up. when I start it up cold it idles just fine. But when I give it a little gas it wants to stall/bog down and it blows black smoke out of the exhaust. Once the truck is warmed up a few minutes it’s just fine. It runs like a top. I’ve replaced a lot of parts on the truck (some related to this issue, some not). I’m not sure where to look next. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I’m running out of money to keep throwing parts at this thing, lol. I was thinking maybe replacing the fuel filter? But it’s only bogging down when the engine is cold . any advice on what to try next will be appreciated, greatly.

Parts I’ve replaced since owning it:
Clutch and flywheel
Water pump
Radiator hoses and fan clutch
Plugs, wires, distributer cap/rotor button
Temp sensor near thermostat
Thermostat
Air intake control valve
Pvc valve and hose
Oxygen sensor

 

[udidwht]

Do you have a live scan app?

 

[Schurkey]

The Usual Three:

1. Verify fuel pressure at prime, at idle, and under load. Most fuel pressure gauge assemblies have a push-button pressure release connected to crappy vinyl tubing. Route the tubing so it empties into a drain pan, then push the button while the engine is running. This simulates higher fuel demand if you can't check fuel pressure on the highway. Fuel pressure should remain steady even with fuel flowing down the pressure-relief tubing. How old is the fuel filter? Have you ever dumped a bottle of Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner into the gas tank? (Recommended at every oil change.)
   
2. How old are the usual “tune-up” parts and procedures? Inspect/replace distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, spark plugs. Make sure the ignition coil will reliably fire a spark-tester calibrated for HEI when the coil is fully warm, and misted with water from a squirt-bottle. Cranking compression test of all cylinders while the spark plugs are removed. Verify EGR, PCV, EVAP, and Heated Air Intake (if used) systems for proper operation. Verify proper initial timing (TBI) and electronic spark advance (TBI and Vortec). Replace old O2 sensors unless you can PROVE that they're working properly—old O2 sensors get lazy, they don't provide accurate data, but they do provide “data” that fools people into thinking they're “working”.
   
3. Connect a scan tool (NOT a crappy “code reader”) and look for “codes”. More important, look at the data stream to verify EVERY sensor and computer output. Verify fuel trims during the time that the vehicle is not running properly. Look for misfire counts for each cylinder (OBD2 only.) “Codes” have official diagnostic procedures that will be found in the service manual set for your vehicle. The service manual set can be downloaded from the links in the Sticky thread section of the Engine forum on this web site.