90 1500 TBI 5.0 stops running

[old_obs_5_0]

Hello, I just picked up a 1990 1500 Silverado. It runs and drives good. Not everyone once I'm a while it just dies. It will start right back up as soon as I put in park and crank it.

Help me please

 

[Cadillacmak]

Hello, I just picked up a 1990 1500 Silverado. It runs and drives good. Not everyone once I'm a while it just dies. It will start right back up as soon as I put in park and crank it.

Help me please

That could be so many things, start working through and checking everything. Fuel pressure, spark, electrical connections, check you distributor out, TBI connectors, etc. Go to the manuals stick thread on this forum and download your year, use it to go through proving what is good and what is bad.

 

[old_obs_5_0]

Do you have a link to that thread?

 

[Cadillacmak]

88-98 Service Manuals

Over the years I have collected a bunch of GM service literature. Links to PDF Scans of service and STG manuals and a links to the Parts manuals. You'll need the FREE Adobe Acrobat reader to open these files. Get it directly from Adobe here {http://get.adobe.com/reader/} If you're not...

www.gmt400.com

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Hey, @Schurkey where's your "Usual Three" you always put so eloquently?

 

[Schurkey]

Hey, @Schurkey where's your "Usual Three" you always put so eloquently?

Gosh. It's almost like you know me.


The Usual Three:

1. Verify fuel pressure at prime, at idle, and under load. Most fuel pressure gauge assemblies have a push-button pressure release connected to crappy vinyl tubing. Route the tubing so it empties into a drain pan, then push the button while the engine is running. This simulates higher fuel demand if you can't check fuel pressure on the highway. Fuel pressure should remain steady even with fuel flowing down the pressure-relief tubing. How old is the fuel filter? Have you ever dumped a bottle of Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner into the gas tank? (Recommended at every oil change.)
   
2. How old are the usual “tune-up” parts and procedures? Inspect/replace distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, spark plugs. Use quality parts sourced from an authorized seller (NO COUNTERFEIT PARTS FROM AMAZON, EBAY, OR OTHER SKETCHY SELLERS!) Be sure the ignition coil will reliably fire a spark-tester calibrated for HEI when the coil is fully warm, and misted with water from a squirt-bottle. Cranking compression test of all cylinders while the spark plugs are removed. Verify EGR, PCV, EVAP, and Heated Air Intake (if used) systems for proper operation. Verify proper initial timing (TBI) and electronic spark advance (TBI and Vortec). Replace old O2 sensors unless you can PROVE that they're working properly—old O2 sensors get lazy, they don't provide accurate data, but they do provide “data” that fools people into thinking they're “working”.
   
3. Connect a scan tool (NOT a crappy “code reader”) and look for “codes”. More important, look at the data stream to verify EVERY sensor and computer output. Verify fuel trims during the time that the vehicle is not running properly. Look for misfire counts for each cylinder (OBD2 only.) “Codes” have official diagnostic procedures that will be found in the service manual set for your vehicle. The service manual set can be downloaded from the links in the Sticky thread section of the Engine forum on this web site.

 

[old_obs_5_0]

Gosh. It's almost like you know me.


The Usual Three:

1. Verify fuel pressure at prime, at idle, and under load. Most fuel pressure gauge assemblies have a push-button pressure release connected to crappy vinyl tubing. Route the tubing so it empties into a drain pan, then push the button while the engine is running. This simulates higher fuel demand if you can't check fuel pressure on the highway. Fuel pressure should remain steady even with fuel flowing down the pressure-relief tubing. How old is the fuel filter? Have you ever dumped a bottle of Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner into the gas tank? (Recommended at every oil change.)
   
2. How old are the usual “tune-up” parts and procedures? Inspect/replace distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, spark plugs. Use quality parts sourced from an authorized seller (NO COUNTERFEIT PARTS FROM AMAZON, EBAY, OR OTHER SKETCHY SELLERS!) Be sure the ignition coil will reliably fire a spark-tester calibrated for HEI when the coil is fully warm, and misted with water from a squirt-bottle. Cranking compression test of all cylinders while the spark plugs are removed. Verify EGR, PCV, EVAP, and Heated Air Intake (if used) systems for proper operation. Verify proper initial timing (TBI) and electronic spark advance (TBI and Vortec). Replace old O2 sensors unless you can PROVE that they're working properly—old O2 sensors get lazy, they don't provide accurate data, but they do provide “data” that fools people into thinking they're “working”.
   
3. Connect a scan tool (NOT a crappy “code reader”) and look for “codes”. More important, look at the data stream to verify EVERY sensor and computer output. Verify fuel trims during the time that the vehicle is not running properly. Look for misfire counts for each cylinder (OBD2 only.) “Codes” have official diagnostic procedures that will be found in the service manual set for your vehicle. The service manual set can be downloaded from the links in the Sticky thread section of the Engine forum on this web site.

Thank you
Will give it a go this weekend