10 bolt axle radial play.

[asjt3]

Folks, 93 K1500: both rear axle seals are leaking, and one of them is leaking after I installed it new a couple months ago. I’m concerned the axle shaft bearings may be worn? Truck has 290,000 miles. Radial play on both is about 0.010” according to my dial indicator. Is this excessive?

I also checked that the vent was not clogged just in case that was a factor. Last time I checked the journal on the axle did not seem worn.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Radial play, or runout? Is the rearend noisy?

My Mustang had bad wheel bearing noise a few years ago, so I pulled the rear axles and replaced the outer wheel bearings. A few thousand miles later the pinion bearing started making noise. Ugh. I bought a spare rearend and rebuilt it at my leisure, and then swapped axles on a Saturday morning. The downside is that I now have a wore out Ford 8.8 taking up space in my shed.

If you have the room and budget for it, I recommend buying a spare rearend and rebuilding the entire thing.

 

[asjt3]

I rebuilt the rear ten years ago. Not noisy at all, and gear oil stays fresh, no metal shavings.

I did not check runout, only up and down travel and got 0.010”. Trying to understand whether that could be causing the leaking seals before I spend time to replace the axles bearings/seals.

 

[Schurkey]

I don't see any spec in the '97 service manual for radial play. Too bad, 'cause I was hoping to confirm that .010 is excessive.

AT MINIMUM, put a micrometer across the un-worn part of the axle shaft, and then across the worn part where the rollers ride. Is the axle shaft worn? If no, you could try a new bearing on one side, and see if there's a reduction in radial play. If there is, put a new bearing in the other side, too.

If the axle shaft is worn, you need new axle shafts AND new bearings.

Putting time, money, effort, and enthusiasm into a GMT400 "ten bolt" axle is not a good use of resources.

Get a "good used" 6-lug, K2500 "14 bolt" 9.5" axle of the same gear ratio. FAR stronger/more durable, and almost certainly better brakes all in one easy upgrade. You need a conversion U-joint, four U-bolts and nuts, a cover gasket, gear lube, and whatever repairs might be needed--fresh brake shoes, new axle seals, etc.

 

[asjt3]

Thanks for the replies. 6-lug 14-bolts are pretty scarce though right?...I'll take a stab at the axle bearings first and then go from there.

 

[Schurkey]

6-lug 14-bolts are pretty scarce though right?

Not so rare that it's not worth looking around for one before you drop dollars into "fixing" a craptastic 10-bolt complete with the craptastic 254mm Leading/Trailing brakes.

 

[asjt3]

I found a 6-lug 14-bolt at the local pick-a-part. Should I grab the beefier leaf springs too?

 

[Schurkey]

I found a 6-lug 14-bolt at the local pick-a-part. Should I grab the beefier leaf springs too?

1. Is it the correct axle ratio?
2. Have you pulled the cover to inspect the gears? Removed one or both drums to look at the brakes and axle seals? (or have a 3+ day warranty on the assembly in case of major problems?) Don't get me wrong--I'd fully expect to perform a complete brake job, maybe including axle seals and replacing the drums. That wouldn't deter me from swapping axles. But if the ring, pinion, spider, or side gears were damaged, I might be looking for a different axle to buy. If the gear ratio were wrong, it'd be of no interest to me.
3. The stronger leaf springs would not be a benefit to me. The truck rides rougher, but the official, legal GVWR doesn't change. OTOH, if your existing springs have problems--cracked or otherwise damaged--different leafs even if they're stiffer would be a reasonable repair.



My goofy buddy had an '89 K1500; being the extremist he is, he had "1-ton" springs made for the thing. But then he's known for loading and working his trucks to far-beyond their legal capacity.

Example:

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[Scooterwrench]

.010" doesn't seem really excessive but at 270,000 it probably wouldn't hurt to replace those bearings. Make sure you apply a little grease to the seal lips when you install them. Dry seals will burn up almost immediately.

 

[asjt3]

Thanks for the replies. I doubt it’s the right ratio simply because my truck is 3.42 which I think is less common in 3.73 right? I was thinking if that was the case I would just re-gear it, but that adds cost.

I’ll have to think on this, I already put a true track in my 10 bolt which has been running great for the last 10 years, new axle bearings and seals only cost me $40 so maybe I’ll try that first. A big part of me just wants this heavy axle as a spare though hehe for any of my 3 GMT trucks.