Advice for tracking down a stumble and misfires

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oefvet0708

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It “worked”, but your rotor may not be in the optimal orientation with respect to the distributor cap. So you can say it worked…. but with the possible loss of optimal phase between the rotor and the cap, a spark jump to the wrong spark tower may occur under certain conditions of ignition timing and cause what would appear to be a misfire condition.

Check your installation against that detailed in the FSM, proactively. It should be pretty easy to do.

Anyway, learn as you go. I never had to solve your exact problem, so I’m speculating. When I stuck my distributor back in I didn’t have any phase issue to figure out, so call me lucky.
I think what I’ll do be sure it is phased correctly like you’re saying is drill a whole in the old cap at the number 5 post and make sure the spark is straight and not jumping at an angle. I guess that would solve any maybe’s
 

Road Trip

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I think what I’ll do be sure it is phased correctly like you’re saying is drill a whole in the old cap at the number 5 post and make sure the spark is straight and not jumping at an angle. I guess that would solve any maybe’s

If you were able to get the CMP <> CKP reading within +1° then you should be all set there.

If it helps here's a picture of how all this lines up inside the distributor cap:

You must be registered for see images attach



Moving on to the Vortec crap crab cap failures, I've attached a photo of what that
looks like when it's bad enough to prevent one of these engines from starting.
(This seems to be a popular failure footprint. The solution is to only use the
very best Vortec cap that's for sale. NOTE: There is a favorite brand in here, just
search around a bit for the current answer.)

Finally, the 13-tooth gear count on the distributor shaft means that it can
be installed 180° out, which leads to the P1345 can't be cleared because one tooth
is too far in 1 direction, while the adjacent tooth is too far in the other direction.

But being within +1° you should be all set. And now just make sure that your cap
didn't arc-over and burn out between the center electrode and the path for the
#3 cylinder.

Best of luck --
 

Attachments

  • Vortec cap center electrode spark leakage (arrows) 1999 5.7 350 vortec P0304 cylinder 4 misfir...jpg
    Vortec cap center electrode spark leakage (arrows) 1999 5.7 350 vortec P0304 cylinder 4 misfir...jpg
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  • vortec V8 distributor cap bird's eye view.jpg
    vortec V8 distributor cap bird's eye view.jpg
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kennythewelder

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I may be wrong, but I'm pretty sure GM didn't put platinum plugs in new trucks untill around 2000. Like I said. I could be wrong. I know this. Platinum plugs have a very small electrode. This gives a small spark. The spark from a copper core plug is wider than from a platinum plug. Take a look at the electrode tips, and compare. Then you can hook them up to a plug wire, and look at the spark. Yes, the platinum plugs will last longer, no doubt. I find that the copper core, give you just a little more power. Just IMO.
 

Schurkey

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Electrode diameter has nothing to do with spark diameter.

The "fine wire" spark plugs supposedly provide better spark than the previously-common big-center-electrode plugs as the plugs wear in service. The precious-metal (Platinum, Iridium, etc.) reduce the wear experienced by the plugs.
 

kennythewelder

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Electrode diameter has nothing to do with spark diameter.

The "fine wire" spark plugs supposedly provide better spark than the previously-common big-center-electrode plugs as the plugs wear in service. The precious-metal (Platinum, Iridium, etc.) reduce the wear experienced by the plugs.
Well, I disagree with your first statement. I have tried both platinum plugs, out of the cylinder, with the plug wire attached, to see the spark, and did the same, with a copper core plug. The overall size of the spark is bigger, wider with copper core plugs, than with a platinum plug. Yes, the gap was the same. Both set to 45,000. I do however agree with you on everything else you posted. A persons plug choice, should be made with that person's driving habits in mind. Having my truck for so long, 22 years, I have tried every type of spark plug there is. For me, I much prefer the performance of a copper core plug. My truck, just simply has more power with copper core plugs. If I have to replace them more often, then so be it. I get it, not everyone is looking for the same thing as I am. 1 more thing to consider is cost. Platinum plugs are about 2 to 3 times more than copper core plugs. So in the long run, you really are not saving any money by how much longer they last.
 

oefvet0708

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I did some live data recording on my way home today. TPS, maf, and map are all reading. Ltft bank1 is +3 and and bank 2 is showing -3 consistently on lean cruise. Now getting a p0300 code obviously. Rear o2s are lazy reading 447 mv but cats are cut out and don’t really care about those. Fronts are switch lean/rich. If anybody likes I can post up the playback but seems that they’re switching. Anything above 70% throttle, the rpm’s just hang at 4k without increasing and speed obviously doesn’t pick up at all either. 30-40% throttle truck accelerates fine without any noticeable difference. I have already started gathering parts for a tune up and ordered the good cap and rotor that was mentioned earlier and going with my tried and true ngk tr5 platinums gapped .040 thou. Still need to double check my fuel pressure again with a good gauge but this would seem to me a lack of fuel issue probably from a bad fpr. Will probably do the spider update in the near future.
 
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