Hard start when warm 94 5.7l 3500 5speed just installed motor

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

The squidward

Newbie
Joined
May 4, 2024
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Location
Central ms
My 94 has 350000 before engine give out I acquired another engine with187000 before installing g I gave it a complete tue up plug wire cap rotor oil sending unit temp sensor after the first attempt to rank discovered feul pump went out.bought a new one installed it runs great better the the other one ever did it gets to running tempafter I shut off and try to crank up again itacts like a vapor lock or flooding not sure which. Hold my foot to the floor and it does start to stumble and crank. Any pointers would be appreciated. Oh and I used my distributor cause there wasn't one In the replacement motor.
 

Schurkey

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2018
Messages
12,623
Reaction score
16,451
Location
The Seasonally Frozen Wastelands
1. Proper punctuation, spacing, and sentence structure would be greatly appreciated. You are not sending some cell-phone text message to people you know well.

2. What is the fuel pressure at prime, AND under load?

3. Connect a scan tool, verify all the sensors and computer outputs; look for RPM when cranking.
 

chris032188

OBS Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 16, 2024
Messages
77
Reaction score
102
Location
nj
Was this ever solved? I am having a similiar issue. Hopefully picking a scan tool to further diagnose
 

docstoy

I'm Awesome
Joined
May 8, 2024
Messages
292
Reaction score
205
Location
Kentucky
How similar is your issue . Try to be specific as we are not there and don't know what you have going on or what your problem may be.
 

chris032188

OBS Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 16, 2024
Messages
77
Reaction score
102
Location
nj
The car starts up cold just fine. If I drive it until it warms up. It'll be really hard to start. If I don't put my foot on the gas wide open it won't start. It does seem like if I do foot on the gas right away it'll start faster and run okay when it fires up. If I try turning it over then it doesn't fire and then I put foot on the gas it'll eventually fire. It runs really rough when it does fire and I have to keep revving it to keep the truck running. Eventually though it clears up and goes back to normal.
 

Road Trip

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2023
Messages
1,722
Reaction score
4,875
Location
Syracuse, NY
Was this ever solved? I am having a similiar issue. Hopefully picking a scan tool to further diagnose

Greetings chris032188,

Looks like the OP's first and last visit to this forum was back on May 4th. But elsewhere in this
forum we've troubleshot a similar issue, so we'll just pick up this thread and run with it.

The car starts up cold just fine. If I drive it until it warms up. It'll be really hard to start. If I don't put my foot on the gas wide open it won't start. It does seem like if I do foot on the gas right away it'll start faster and run okay when it fires up. If I try turning it over then it doesn't fire and then I put foot on the gas it'll eventually fire. It runs really rough when it does fire and I have to keep revving it to keep the truck running. Eventually though it clears up and goes back to normal.

From your description it sounds like you have to employ the "Clear Flood" mode (ie: holding the
gas pedal to the floor while cranking) in order to get your vehicle to start once it's warmed up?

When you do this you are telling your TBI computer to override it's fuel delivery calculations and
instead meter a very lean ~20:1 A/F mixture in order to help clear a flood condition.
(I'm assuming that this is for your '94 5.7 K3500?)

The short story is that the ECT has a lot of authority over the quantity of fuel being delivered
when the engine is cranking over. And if the sensor goes out of calibration / fails open (or there's
an open in the wiring harness to the sensor) ...then the TBI computer will think it's -40° out,
and responds by delivering an impressive amount of fuel, leading to a crank/no start at normal
temps and rough running for a short while afterwards.

In order to get yourself up to speed on all this, here's a thread where we troubleshot a vehicle
with starting issues very similar to yours. In response to the OP's description of only being to
start his vehicle by holding the gas pedal to the floor, I posted the following:

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/truck-wont-start-need-suggestions.65257/page-2#post-1370733

You might want to read the entire thread from the beginning in order to get a good feel for
troubleshooting this kind of problem, but at the very least go to reply #43, open the video,
and fast forward to ~13:15, and watch how much fuel his truck was spraying while cranking.
(The manual mentions that the cranking A/F ratio goes from 14.7:1 at 201 degrees all the way
to 1.5:1 at -33°F. (!)

Note: The OP was having trouble getting a good, stable reading with his multimeter during testing,
but persevered, changed the faulty sensor, and got his truck starting as it should. After the fix I
asked the OP if he would mail the old sensor to me, which he did, and I was able to verify the
sensor had failed in reply #71.

****

Elsewhere on the interwebs people will suggest throwing parts at a problem (parts cannon
in Ready, Fire, Aim mode :0) ...but doing so can lead a GMT400 owner to dig an expensive,
deep hole with the original problem remaining, but now joined with additional ones. Yikes.

Instead, you will find that the folks who hang out here will ask you to troubleshoot first, and
replace parts based upon test results.

As always, the above is just food for troubleshooting thought, and no guarantees that the solution
shared is the correct one for your issue. YMMV. But it's something to consider.

Check it out and be sure to let us know what you discover.

Best of luck --
 
Last edited:

chris032188

OBS Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 16, 2024
Messages
77
Reaction score
102
Location
nj
Greetings chris032188,

Looks like the OP's first and last visit to this forum was back on May 4th. But elsewhere in this
forum we've troubleshot a similar issue, so we'll just pick up this thread and run with it.



From your description it sounds like you have to employ the "Clear Flood" mode (ie: holding the
gas pedal to the floor while cranking) in order to get your vehicle to start once it's warmed up?

When you do this you are telling your TBI computer to override it's fuel delivery calculations and
instead meter a very lean ~20:1 A/F mixture in order to help clear a flood condition.
(I'm assuming that this is for your '94 5.7 K3500?)

The short story is that the ECT has a lot of authority over the quantity of fuel being delivered
when the engine is cranking over. And if the sensor goes out of calibration / fails open (or there's
an open in the wiring harness to the sensor) ...then the TBI computer will think it's -40° out,
and responds by delivering an impressive amount of fuel, leading to a crank/no start at normal
temps and rough running for a short while afterwards.

In order to get yourself up to speed on all this, here's a thread where we troubleshot a vehicle
with starting issues very similar to yours. In response to the OP's description of only being to
start his vehicle by holding the gas pedal to the floor, I posted the following:

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/truck-wont-start-need-suggestions.65257/page-2#post-1370733

You might want to read the entire thread from the beginning in order to get a good feel for
troubleshooting this kind of problem, but at the very least go to reply #43, open the video,
and fast forward to ~13:15, and watch how much fuel his truck was spraying while cranking.
(The manual mentions that the cranking A/F ratio goes from 14.7:1 at 201 degrees all the way
to 1.5:1 at -33°F. (!)

Note: The OP was having trouble getting a good, stable reading with his multimeter during testing,
but persevered, changed the faulty sensor, and got his truck starting as it should. After the fix I
asked the OP if he would mail the old sensor to me, which he did, and I was able to verify the
sensor had failed in reply #71.

****

Elsewhere on the interwebs people will suggest throwing parts at a problem (parts cannon
in Ready, Fire, Aim mode :0) ...but doing so can lead to a GMT400 owner to dig an expensive,
deep hole with the original problem remaining, but now joined with additional ones. Yikes.

Instead, you will find that the folks who hang out here will ask yout to troubleshoot first, and
replace parts based upon test results.

As always, the above is just food for troubleshooting thought, and no guarantees that the solution
shared is the correct one for your issue. YMMV. But it's something to consider.

Check it out and be sure to let us know what you discover.

Best of luck --
Yeah I'm trying to stop the parts Canon. I just picked up a scanner so I can run some diagnostic on it. I have a feeling it is the temperature sensor. The truck was heavily finger blasted by the prior owners before me so I'm just trying to clean up some mess.
 

Road Trip

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2023
Messages
1,722
Reaction score
4,875
Location
Syracuse, NY
Yeah I'm trying to stop the parts Canon. I just picked up a scanner so I can run some diagnostic on it. I have a feeling it is the temperature sensor. The truck was heavily finger blasted by the prior owners before me so I'm just trying to clean up some mess.

Copy all. Make sure that your scanner is capable of reporting live data before opening the packaging. (Lots of scanners
can only report codes, and while they are OK on a newish vehicle with 99% of everything is good, and only 1 thing bad
at a time, they can be very little help on a 30 year old truck suffering from complex interactions from multiple parts in
unknown condition. Especially if it's been worked on by an uninformed PO.

...But with live data and a disciplined approach we can get that K3500 running strong like bull in the least number of
moves.

Anyone willing to revive an old hard working truck like this has my vote. And we all learn through
our combined efforts to help sort your new (to you) truck out. Just make sure that your new scan tool
has the necessary suds for the task at hand.

Cheers --
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jun 7, 2023
Messages
17
Reaction score
44
Location
NorCal
I've seen the hard-starting issue on other vehicles. The symptom of "warm starts succeed only with full throttle" - that suggest to me that the engine is being fed a Too Rich mixture. By opening the throttle all the way, you are introducing enough air to offset the too rich condition.

In my experience - this was caused by the engine computer interpreting coolant temperature as an indication of Cold Start condition, so it's trying to feed the engine with a rich air/fuel mixture.
[edit: Note that the OEM configuration cites two coolant temp sensors, the first is the two-wire sensor that feeds the computer (the ECT sensor) and is located by the thermostat, and the second single-wire sensor that feeds the gage on the dash, located on the drivers side down between plugs 1 and 3]


1) Have you verified the coolant temp sensor (ECT) is connected to the engine computer?

2) Have you tested the coolant temp sensor to confirm that is is providing the proper signal to the computer?
Not sure if the service manual has a test sequence for the coolant temp sensor ???
 
Last edited:
Top