1990 C1500 ABS (RWAL) removal.

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Piratehunter

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@Supercharged111 please check your private messages folder. Want to see if I can stop by sometime and see the modification and parts you used to delete the abs. Seems simple enough, I’m a better visual learner. Thanks
 

Tomcat71

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Just bypassed mine and the rears now work great.
good firm high pedal also just like it should have been from the factory.
 

JTPs SS

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I just wanted to say thank you for posting this article. Since I got my truck in February it’s been to the garage 3 times for the brake light. I asked them to do the delete and they wouldn’t. I’m not a mechanic, I’m the cable guy but this seemed easy enough so I tried it. It took me 30 minutes to complete. I need to wait until the Mrs gets home to bleed them but they already feel better than before I did it.
Thank you again. You made my day.
 

JTPs SS

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I just wanted to say thank you for posting this article. Since I got my truck in February it’s been to the garage 3 times for the brake light. I asked them to do the delete and they wouldn’t. I’m not a mechanic, I’m the cable guy but this seemed easy enough so I tried it. It took me 30 minutes to complete. I need to wait until the Mrs gets home to bleed them but they already feel better than before I did it.
Thank you again. You made my day.
I wanted to update this…….. When I bled the brakes I noticed two things, 1. The fluid was very dirty. 2. One of the bleeders was stripped. I ordered new speed bleeders all the way around then bled the brakes until clean fluid was coming out. Problem solved, right? Not really.
I assume from taking the top of the reservoir off/on repeatedly that it caused a small leak in the gasket between the reservoir and master cylinder. I decided to replace the entire mc.
I don’t know what bore size was in my truck but googling said the bigger bore will have less pedal travel. 40mm bore was purchased and installed. Every different thing I did made the pedal feel a little better but replacing the mc was the ticket. I can now forget about the brakes and move on to something else.
Thanks again.
 

GrimsterGMC

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I wanted to update this…….. When I bled the brakes I noticed two things, 1. The fluid was very dirty. 2. One of the bleeders was stripped. I ordered new speed bleeders all the way around then bled the brakes until clean fluid was coming out. Problem solved, right? Not really.
I assume from taking the top of the reservoir off/on repeatedly that it caused a small leak in the gasket between the reservoir and master cylinder. I decided to replace the entire mc.
I don’t know what bore size was in my truck but googling said the bigger bore will have less pedal travel. 40mm bore was purchased and installed. Every different thing I did made the pedal feel a little better but replacing the mc was the ticket. I can now forget about the brakes and move on to something else.
Thanks again.
While a bigger bore will require less travel and have a harder pedal, the trade off is less line pressure as a result.
 

Schurkey

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40mm bore was purchased and installed.
Two master cylinder sizes used on 1500 trucks. JN3 trucks got the little one, at 32mm or maybe 36mm, and JN5 or JN6 trucks got the bigger one at 40mm.

Which brakes does your truck have? The bigger master cylinder also got the bigger vacuum booster, and operated the calipers with bigger pistons.
You must be registered for see images attach

If your truck has JN3 brakes, you have a whole bunch of upgrading to do.
 

JTPs SS

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Two master cylinder sizes used on 1500 trucks. JN3 trucks got the little one, at 32mm or maybe 36mm, and JN5 or JN6 trucks got the bigger one at 40mm.

Which brakes does your truck have? The bigger master cylinder also got the bigger vacuum booster, and operated the calipers with bigger pistons.
You must be registered for see images attach

If your truck has JN3 brakes, you have a whole bunch of upgrading to do.
I would assume the JN5 or 6. It looks like the bigger one in the picture (cable guy, not mechanic). Also it’s an SS 454 which would lead me to believe it’s the bigger brakes. You think the auto parts stores would have that information??? The two guys at different places I spoke to both said, I don’t know, they should both work.
 

Schurkey

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Open the glove box, look at the SPID decal.

Yeah, I'm expecting JN5/JB5, which would have gotten the 40mm master cylinder as original equipment.

Which maybe means you gutted the ABS when the real problem was contaminated fluid, and a failed master cylinder.
 

JTPs SS

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Open the glove box, look at the SPID decal.

Yeah, I'm expecting JN5/JB5, which would have gotten the 40mm master cylinder as original equipment.

Which maybe means you gutted the ABS when the real problem was contaminated fluid, and a failed master cylinder.
It says JB5 and I agree the fluid and mc were more than likely the problem.
Thanks
 

TylerSteez

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Just did this to my truck, took 5 minutes to remove the abs stuff and move the line over to the prop valve. my 92 k2500 with jb7 brakes didn't need the adapter as well, I'm assuming that's just an 88-90 thing. I bled the brakes and so far this is the most consistent pedal feel I've had. Still lower grab point than I imagined but it's at least consistent.

I've always had the typical low pedal but recently I noticed it got drastically lower and would trigger the brake light. I noticed a small leak from the isolation valve port thing on the bottom so figured I'd just remove this horrible tech all together. this is a great thread.
 
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