O2 sensor simulator

Boyd Crowder said:

I have the O2 sensors I can weld bungs in. My question is this. Will it do any good with the catalytic converters not being there?

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I think you seem to be misunderstanding their role. I'll try a different way:

The FRONT O2 sensors are necessary for how the engine runs. They have nothing to do with the catalytic converters. It doesn't matter if you have cats, or not, you need the front O2 sensors so the engine can run correctly.

The REAR O2 sensors do not affect how the engine runs. They are for determining whether the catalytic converters are working, or have failed. You can leave the cats off. You can leave the rear O2's off.

Richard

NeedSomeHelp said:

Hey, Richard. Sorry if this message finds you weirdly, but I saw your replies 10 years ago (I know right ) about the "rarity" of manuals in these trucks. I have a 1992 Chevy K1500 single cab shortbed, 5.7L, 5speed manual. I'm curious to learn more about it and found you might be the guy to talk to haha. Please reach out on FB if you're up to have a chat and talk about the truck with me if you wouldn't mind my FB is Clay Werntz. Thanks alot man!

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It does find me a little weirdly, to use your phrase, because you tacked a completely unrelated message into someone else's post about o2 sensors.. but OK!

This is a message forum, feel free to start your own post in the appropriate section and ask away.. there's thousands of people here that can help; all of them focused on these trucks. That's the whole reason we're here..

Richard

Boyd Crowder said:

I have the O2 sensors I can weld bungs in. My question is this. Will it do any good with the catalytic converters not being there?

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Yes 100% absolutely just add the front 02s and then the computer can adjust the fueling based on the air fuel ratio. If you don’t add the sensors your engine will run on a default tune which is very rich. I lost a few mpg when my front 02 sensor was broken. Functionality there is zero advantage to adding the cats or the rear 02 sensors. The code the emgine will have with missing rear 02 sensors won’t effect how it runs.

Thanks for the input, I'll be adding bungs to tonight

b454rat said:

Summit has band clamps with the O2 bungs welded on them. Be cheaper and easier than a shop doing it. Not much room!!

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Don't use these,they will leak air in and cause a false O2 reading. Weld the bungs in and be sure they have an airtight seal all the way around.

Ive had good luck with band clamps, but never used these. Maybe the chinesium isn't up to par....

Boyd Crowder said:

Thanks for the input, I'll be adding bungs to tonight

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There is a way to make a downstream o2 sensor simulator yourself, you will need to make two if you go this route. You have two different options on how to make it, either with an o2 sensor connector/pigtail (easy to hide with a ziptie on top of the frame) or cut the signal wires from an o2 sensor that has a working heater (you will need to weld bungs so you can mount it to the exhaust)

You will need:
-Wire Strippers / Crimpers
-Two o2 sensor connector pigtails OR two downstream o2 sensors that still have a working heater
-Two 4.7 microfarad capacitors (C1 in diagram)
-Two 12 Ohm Resistor w/ a minimum rating of 15 Watts (R1 in diagram) (if you use a pigtail)
-Two 1 Megaohm 1/4 watt resistors (R2 in diagram)
-Soldering Iron Kit
-Marine Grade Butt Connectors, Heat Shrink Tubing, Electrical Tape, or whatever is your preferred method of weather proofing (I don't want to argue with people about this... so just do it right.)



Look at your o2 sensor harness connector coming from the ECM
A - TAN (bank 1) or TAN/WHT (bank 2) - Signal ground
B - PPL (bank 1) or PPL/WHT (bank 2) -Signal
C - BLK - Heater Ground
D - PNK - Heater V+

Aftermarket o2 sensor connectors, depending on the brand, will have different colored wires than the trucks wiring harness so you will need to take note of what A, B, C, & D matches to on the o2 sensor pigtail.

SIGNAL WIRES:
-Strip the middle of wires A & B back about a half an inch

-Take capacitor (C1) and twist the negative side of the capacitor (there will be a white or gray stripe with an arrow pointing to negative conductor - picture of example below) to wire A, and twist the positive side of the capacitor to wire B.

-Strip the ends of wires A & B back about a half an inch and twist each end of resistor (R2) onto A & B

-Solder and seal all connections

HEATER WIRES (if you use the pigtail option):
-Strip the ends of wires C & D back about a half an inch

-Twist wires C & D to each end of resistor (R1), Polarity does not matter for this.

-Solder and seal all connections.

-Plug It In, Plug It In!

I cannot post links so you will have to copy and paste to amazon

Capacitor:
BOJACK 5X11mm 4.7uF 50V 4.7MFD 50Voltage ±20% Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors(Pack of 10 Pcs)

12 Ohm Resistor:
LM YN 25 Watt 15 Ohm 5% Wirewound Resistor Electronic Aluminium Shell Resistor Gold (Pack of 2)

1 Megaohm Resistor:
25EP1141M00 1M Ohm Resistors, 1/4 W, 1% (Pack of 25)