Firing order for distributor cap wires to block

Hi all back again new parts truck owner sold cheap because he did a tune up and never started after.

The truck is almost the exact same as the other one I bought, k2500 350 small block 700r4 3/4... the gentleman said he did a tune up ever since it would fire over, after I got it home I noticed the new coil wasn't fully clipped into place for power, now it wants to crank but sound like the firing order is wrong I looked at the wires and them seem brand new as well

so I was curious if any of you new where to find a photo of where the wires Go from the distributor to the block for the truck one.

Two there is a red and a yellow wire leading into the coil pack, only the red is plug in. But on the other plug from the coil pack, to the distributor. Is the same red and yellow wires both the red and yellow plugged into the distributor. Is the yellow supposed to have a plug leading to the coil aswell? Or is the yellow like a rpm gauge wire and not used because the truck dosnt have a ram gauge?

Assuming this is a '95 or older:
Engine at TDC, remove the distributor cap and verify the rotor points to the actual #1 cylinder. Line up the rotor with a pin on the cap, then run the wires to 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 clockwise on the cap.
Once it's running, loosen the Distributor hold down and set the timing per the specs on tne underhood emissions label.

Nad_Yvalhosert said:

Assuming this is a '95 or older:
Engine at TDC, remove the distributor cap and verify the rotor points to the actual #1 cylinder. Line up the rotor with a pin on the cap, then run the wires to 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 clockwise on the cap.
Once it's running, loosen the Distributor hold down and set the timing per the specs on tne underhood emissions label.

Click to expand...

Thank you it's an 88 I thought I posted that my bad

Nad_Yvalhosert said:

Assuming this is a '95 or older:
Engine at TDC, remove the distributor cap and verify the rotor points to the actual #1 cylinder. Line up the rotor with a pin on the cap, then run the wires to 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 clockwise on the cap.
Once it's running, loosen the Distributor hold down and set the timing per the specs on tne underhood emissions label.

Click to expand...

Sorry one other thing any idea on the yellow wire to the coil?

you may need to do this

if your harmonic balancer has slipped though it will not read right on the timing light and you will have to go by ear and then drive and repeat till it is good

99xcss4 said:

you may need to do this

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Click to expand...

scornedlotus said:

Thank you it's an 88 I thought I posted that my bad

Click to expand...

scornedlotus said:

Sorry one other thing any idea on the yellow wire to the coil?

Click to expand...

Not really. My truck has a coil with 2 connectors, 4 pins total.

A black 2 pin connector that is on one side of the coil. Both pink and white wires go to the ignition module.

There's also a gray 2 pin connector on the coil with a fat pink and a fat white wire. Both connect to the coil.
Also in the harness with a skinny white wire with single wire connector dangling out. That's for an external or Auxiliary tachometer.

My truck doesn't have a yellow wire, though I'll admit with age the colors might have faded. Your best bet is to read a wiring schematic and see what they're labeled as.

If the dist. hasn't been clocked wrong #1 terminal on the cap will be pointed towards #1 cyl.

scornedlotus said:

Hi all back again new parts truck owner sold cheap because he did a tune up and never started after.

The truck is almost the exact same as the other one I bought, k2500 350 small block 700r4 3/4... the gentleman said he did a tune up ever since it would fire over, after I got it home I noticed the new coil wasn't fully clipped into place for power, now it wants to crank but sound like the firing order is wrong I looked at the wires and them seem brand new as well

so I was curious if any of you new where to find a photo of where the wires Go from the distributor to the block for the truck one.

Two there is a red and a yellow wire leading into the coil pack, only the red is plug in. But on the other plug from the coil pack, to the distributor. Is the same red and yellow wires both the red and yellow plugged into the distributor. Is the yellow supposed to have a plug leading to the coil aswell? Or is the yellow like a rpm gauge wire and not used because the truck dosnt have a ram gauge?

Click to expand...

Did the previous owner pull the distributor and re- install it?
Every time you pull a chevy distributor and then try to stab it back in it will be one tooth off.
Every time.
That is because the end of the distrubutor pulls out of the pump drive before the distributor gear stops the rotor from turning.
Every time you try to stab a chevy distributor the pump drive will be off by one tooth.
Every single time.
On an old points system or a carbed engine you can get away with pointing the rotor in the general direction and then using a timing light.
Even on those old systems that was always rather poor practice to use.
But it would work. Kinda sorta maybe in a farmer way.
That doesnt work very well on a TBI system.
When you pull a chevy distributor it needs to be at zero tdc with #1 one on the compression stroke.
The only thing you need to drop that dist right back into its spot is about 2 foot long standard screwdriver.
Stick it in the hole and eyeball it while you turn the oil pump drive about 10 or 12 degrees or so counterclockwise.
And that is all there is too it.
The only thing you need to do to avoid distributor stabbing fuckery is back turn the oil pump drive with a big screwdriver.
It will drop right back into the marks you made when you pulled it.