Suspension parts questions

I bought Acdelco upper a-arms. The ball joints that came with them were a complete joke. I personally would buy a-arms on RockAuto, go to “Closeouts”, scroll down till to you find a-arms(TRW Brand I think), purchase them and yank ball joints out.
Then install TTX(imo). Also, if you replace your lower a-arms, PM me and I’ll buy your forged ones.

Orpedcrow said:

The c-clamp press works, but bushings CAN and usually do end up being a serious pain. Especially if you’re using hand tools and not an air impact.

I’m a mechanic with access to good air tools and I still buy loaded control arms. The labor to replace bushings and ball joints /usually/ out ways the cost difference of the loaded unit.

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Ahh I follow you. Thanks for putting me up on game. I may just change out the entire arms then. I have a preference to keep it as stock or stock replacement as possible. I really wanted to try ac delco for all the replacements but according to summit weren’t shipping til the end of June so I went with mevo tech then I was gonna do ttx but they’re supreme line was a little cheaper so I’m thinking of doing that so I’m able to include pitman arms idler arms and brackets etc . & since you said they’re considered stock replacements I might just roll with them. I should have some more pics this week I plan on breaking everything down .
I was deciding between battery dewalt impact . Or an air I JUST got a 15 gallon compressor so I figure now I can actually use air tools before I just had a 1 gal small one so air tools were never really on my mind

Caman96 said:

I bought Acdelco upper a-arms. The ball joints that came with them were a complete joke. I personally would buy a-arms on RockAuto, go to “Closeouts”, scroll down till to you find a-arms(TRW Brand I think), purchase them and yank ball joints out.
Then install TTX(imo). Also, if you replace your lower a-arms, PM me and I’ll buy your forged ones.

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I planned on keeping the lowers and repainting changing bushing & ball joint. Mainly cause the price of replacement & finding a direct replacement I’ll share some pics soon. The uppers I was thinking ball joint & bushing replacement but since mevotech is considered a stock replacement I may just replace the entire arm cause it could be quicker & like you said value wise it’s about the same anyway.

CruiseLifeB said:

I planned on keeping the lowers and repainting changing bushing & ball joint. Mainly cause the price of replacement & finding a direct replacement I’ll share some pics soon. The uppers I was thinking ball joint & bushing replacement but since mevotech is considered a stock replacement I may just replace the entire arm cause it could be quicker & like you said value wise it’s about the same anyway.

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I was joking about the LCA. Take a look at ProForged brand for Pitman, Idler and Idler Bracket. Can be purchased on Amazon.

Caman96 said:

I was joking about the LCA. Take a look at ProForged brand for Pitman, Idler and Idler Bracket. Can be purchased on Amazon.

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Haha oh ok ok I was gonna say I mean if I did go the way of trying to find whole new parts I wouldn’t mind trying to get it to you.

You liked proforged more than mevotech , ac Delco or whatever

CruiseLifeB said:

You liked proforged more than mevotech , ac Delco or whatever

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I like and use all the TTX parts for our trucks. There is no TTX Pitman, Idler and Idler Bracket.
This is what I did to my front end.

Caman96 said:

I like and use all the TTX parts for our trucks. There is no TTX Pitman, Idler and Idler Bracket.
This is what I did to my front end.

Eye Candy

www.gmt400.com

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you did A good job bro. hope i do at least half as good. ill start takingg stuff off tomorrow had to get a jack today & some jack stands

I put ball joints and (Polyurethane) control arm bushings into the '88 K1500; and I feel really good about that. The problem was that no manufacturer of Poly control arm bushings will include the steel inner sleeves for the upper control arms. The upper arm inner sleeves are notorious for rusting terribly. I had to fabricate new sleeves myself, and I don't own a lathe so it was no fun at all. The wonderful thing about Poly bushings is that there's no press or special tools needed--aside from a regular propane torch to heat the outer shells so the rubber can be slid out.



Rubber bushing inserts, and one sleeve "as removed", the other after removing rust with a wire wheel mounted to a bench-grinder.


Poly bushing insert, with new and old steel sleeves.


I put Moog complete upper control arms in the '97 K2500, and although they look nice, I have no faith in the long-term durability. OTOH, they're fine at least for now.

Somebody needs sway-bar links, too.

CruiseLifeB said:

I was deciding between battery dewalt impact . Or an air I JUST got a 15 gallon compressor so I figure now I can actually use air tools

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I have no love of rechargeable batteries. OTOH, a 15-gallon air compressor is going to be useless for air hammers, die grinders, and sand-blasting cabinets; and marginal for intermittent-use tools like impact wrenches.

I had a 20-gallon, 120-volt air compressor for awhile. An air hammer would run for about two or three seconds. Worked "ok" but not great for tire changes with a 1/2" air impact wrench. Filled car tires with air really well.

Moved up to a 5-horse, 220-volt, 60 gallon single-stage compressor, and it never shut off when die grinding or sand-blasting. I had constant problems with water in the air supply system.

Ended up with a 5-horse, 220-volt, 80 gallon TWO STAGE compressor. NOW I have the nice, dry compressed air I need.

Schurkey said:

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Somebody needs sway-bar links, too.


I have no love of rechargeable batteries. OTOH, a 15-gallon air compressor is going to be useless for air hammers, die grinders, and sand-blasting cabinets; and marginal for intermittent-use tools like impact wrenches.

I had a 20-gallon, 120-volt air compressor for awhile. An air hammer would run for about two or three seconds. Worked "ok" but not great for tire changes with a 1/2" air impact wrench. Filled car tires with air really well.

Moved up to a 5-horse, 220-volt, 60 gallon single-stage compressor, and it never shut off when die grinding or sand-blasting. I had constant problems with water in the air supply system.

Ended up with a 5-horse, 220-volt, 80 gallon TWO STAGE compressor. NOW I have the nice, dry compressed air I need.

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haha i defintely need some new ones. i want to place as much as i can/need to debating on new cv axles as well. but the only ones ive seen have been like $300plus so idk about that one.