Bad running after manual swap

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

1998_K1500_Sub

Nitro Junkie
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2019
Messages
2,388
Reaction score
3,638
Location
Rural Illinois
I think stock 2 PCM grounds were used, but one of the 2 grounds had 2 wires in the terminal.

I seem to remember I’ve seen two wires on one ring terminal, yes.

Mine was redone at one point and they didn’t use 2 wires in 1 terminal, so I have 3 PCM grounds now.

Interesting, I wonder why I it was redone.
 

1998_K1500_Sub

Nitro Junkie
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2019
Messages
2,388
Reaction score
3,638
Location
Rural Illinois
If I can’t get the strap onto the back of the passenger cylinder head would the farthest back intake manifold bolt stud work aswell? Or would that be a no go?

It sounds tempting, but I think not. Doing so would create a small voltage potential across the intake manifold and engine block (I.e., across the gasket), including coolant passages, which might be unwise. This would occur when the vehicle is in operation and the ground strap is carrying return current. As a short term solution? Perhaps, but I wouldn’t leave it that way. Others may comment.

On my 94 TBI the alternator is actually on the drivers side.

Hmm… did GM put a strap on your engine on the driver’s side, perhaps?
 
Last edited:

JPVortex

I'm Awesome
Joined
Mar 24, 2023
Messages
435
Reaction score
217
Location
USA
It sounds tempting, but I think not. Doing so would create a small voltage potential across the intake manifold and engine block (I.e., across the gasket), including coolant passages, which might be unwise. This would occur when the vehicle is in operation and the ground strap is carrying return current. As a short term solution? Perhaps, but I wouldn’t leave it that way. Others may comment.



Hmm… did GM put a strap on your engine on the driver’s side, perhaps?
Ok so I’ll try to get it to the back of the cyl head.

I don’t think there’s any on the drivers side, everything seems to be on passenger side according to the 94 FSM.
 

JPVortex

I'm Awesome
Joined
Mar 24, 2023
Messages
435
Reaction score
217
Location
USA
also yeah, called the mechanic today and the new ECM didn’t fix the communication issue. We agreed together if he can’t figure anything out by end of Monday I’m gonna go pick it up.

Then I’ll sort out the grounds and stuff.
 

1998_K1500_Sub

Nitro Junkie
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2019
Messages
2,388
Reaction score
3,638
Location
Rural Illinois
FYI, I was looking through the 1991 FSM at the wiring illustrations, thinking your 1994 might be similar.

Here are the illustrations showing the engine-to-body and body-to-frame grounds straps.

This is clearly a case where the engine-body ground isn't connected to the same head as the alternator, as I supposed in my earlier post.

You must be registered for see images attach



You must be registered for see images attach
 

1998_K1500_Sub

Nitro Junkie
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2019
Messages
2,388
Reaction score
3,638
Location
Rural Illinois
Here's the battery wiring, showing the "-" connection to the fender and the "-" connection to the engine... although the actual location of the engine connection isn't plain. Based on what I've seen in the 1998 FSM, that connection's down on the front of the engine near the timing cover, passenger's side.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

1998_K1500_Sub

Nitro Junkie
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2019
Messages
2,388
Reaction score
3,638
Location
Rural Illinois
Here's an illustration showing the grounds on the intake manifold.

Again, this is for 1991 so your year (1994) may differ.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

JPVortex

I'm Awesome
Joined
Mar 24, 2023
Messages
435
Reaction score
217
Location
USA
Awesome! Thank you very much for the diagrams of these grounds, helps a lot.

Was definitely a bit confused about where on the back of the passenger cylinder head the ground went, because when I felt it at the junkyard there was multiple holes. Now this diagram clearly shows that it goes on the bottom hole, theres 2 holes up top that aren't used then one below it on the intake side that is used for that ground. Shows me exactly where it needs to go!
 

JPVortex

I'm Awesome
Joined
Mar 24, 2023
Messages
435
Reaction score
217
Location
USA
To be honest I do question if the ground is even the problem, more likely it's one of the power wires to be honest.

Unless when I move the coil around its losing ground intermittently because of missing those grounds, still gonna replace them because it needs them but I have a feeling it's not the coil problem.
 

1998_K1500_Sub

Nitro Junkie
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2019
Messages
2,388
Reaction score
3,638
Location
Rural Illinois
To be honest I do question if the ground is even the problem, more likely it's one of the power wires to be honest.

Unless when I move the coil around its losing ground intermittently because of missing those grounds, still gonna replace them because it needs them but I have a feeling it's not the coil problem.

If you don't have good ground engine-body and body-frame (and thus engine-frame), there may be tramp currents in strange places, and attendant voltage offsets (V=IR) between different "grounds" on the vehicle.

Ground wires are every bit as important as "power" wires, even more-so because grounds often provide a shared current path for multiple devices... which means, if the ground is bad, some devices can cause effects on others for mysterious reasons.

Can you tell me this: What's the return path for the current from the coil to the spark plugs? Remember, it has to get back to coil, somehow. Think about it.

Fix the grounds!
 
Last edited:
Top